I have a melamine on tempered hardboard panel which is stuck to
drywall with an adhesive.
A section of the panel has been torn off, leaving a ragged and uneven
How do I cut the edge so I install a new section which will butt
against the cut edge of the panel on the wall without a noticeable
gap? (I don't have a circular-saw or a jigsaw).
I have a melamine-on-tempered-hardboard panel which is stuck to
drywall with an adhesive.
A section of the panel has been torn off. How do I cut the ragged,
uneven edge of the section that is still on the wall so I can install
a new section without a noticeable gap? (I don't have a circular-saw
or a jigsaw)..
If your time is worth anything, consider buying a very inexpensive
circular saw with a good panel blade. It'll make short work of
your problem and if you're like most homeowner's, the saw will
last you and be available forever.
Woah! there..... I don't know where this little project is located but it
sounds like the OP is describing a situation that may involve a kitchen or
bathroom. Typically melamine on tempered hardboard is used in one of those
locations as it is pretty much water proof and cleans easily. If that is
indeed fact you don't want to have a home owner learning to use a circle saw
cutting into walls that might have gas lines, water lines or electrical
wires that may be damaged.
Barker Board, by the sounds of it. If the saw is set to 1/4" depth, he
should be okay.
Only a TCG blade stands a chance of minimizing chips. That, and a
straight-edge...probably needs to be screwed to the wall. Wear
goggles, in case you hit a screw on the wall-board behind the Barker
I stayed away from explaining how to do it, though I agree that
any circular saw with a depth adjustment (that includes about all)
would be a LOT safer than a jigsaw, and produce better results.
IMHO, assuming that you're right about the 1/4" melamine coated
paneling, I'd make a shooting board and use that to prevent chip
To do that, get a piece of 5/8" or 3/4" particle board or plywood
(even 1/4" will do for short pieces) about 3' to 4' long. The
length should obviously be longer than your damaged section. The
width of the shooting board would be about 12" or so: it's not
critical, but has to be a few inches wider than the base of your
On the face of the board, a few inches in from the edge, mark the
straightest line you can possibly make for the length of the
board. Then, glue a strip of wood to the mark. The ideal strip
would be about 1/4" tall by an inch or so wide. It must be
Then, simply place the base of the saw against the strip of wood,
lower the blade to exceed the depth of the shooting board's
material and cut off the excess. What you'll have is a straight
edge that's a perfect fit between the inside edge of your saw
blade and the outside base of the saw's shoe. You'll find this to
be one of the handiest jigs you ever made.
To use it, you clamp the board to the workpiece on the outside of
the straight strip. For instance, if you're cutting off the
bottom of a door, clamp the shooting board to the door so that the
cut edge is aligned with your marks. Then, when the saw cuts off
the door, particle board, paneling etc., there will be no chipout
at all AND you won't have to make additional measurements or
calculations, since the cut edge of the shooting board lies
straight on the mark.
On Sat, 7 Nov 2009 17:11:37 -0800 (PST), Robatoy
On another note, I don't think I've ever really understood what a
shooting board is. What I believe is that it's for trimming to a
sharp, definable point. Would that be considered correct?
A circular saw or jigsaw won't get you near enough of a straight line
to conform to your unnoticeable requirement. Being tool constricted,
you can use a razor knife with repeated strokes to cut the offending
piece so you can remove it. At that point, all I can suggest is to use
a template to outline a perfect 90° rectangular section and cut that
out. Then use a reverse sized interior template to cut the melamine
square for replacement. If you have it, the replacement melamine piece
can be perfectly edged by a router bit using a roller bearing riding
on a straight edge.
Understand though, no matter how careful you are and how much you work
on the seam between the two, you're always going to be able to see
that seam with a close inspection.
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