Joe, you may be right. I had the same impression, but I read somewhere that the thin layer you get with clamping is brittle. Maybe it's only the foamed part that's flexible. Maybe some bonafide glue expert will chime in here with some bonafide facts.
I've had great success with poly glue too, it's just so hard to get off my hands.
DonkeyHody "Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him."
Hands are no problem.... it wears off after several days ;-)
Now clothes... that's a different story. My favorite sweatshirt has had a couple glue spots on it for a few years now. After lots of wearing and countless washings the glue is as intact as the day I leaned into the glue.
I did some research back then and by all accounts (including a poly glue manufacturer) there is no known solvent that will remove dried polyurethane glue.
Larry, Great pictures. Where do you buy your hardware? I got sticker shock at Rockler.
Tom
After I answered your question the first time, I began to wonder if I was remembering correctly what I had read. I was afraid I might have told you wrong, so I did a little checking. According to the results of a quick internet search:
I hope this helps. I'll be sticking with Titebond II and III, with an occasional squirt of Gorilla for special applications.
DonkeyHody "Even an old blind hog finds an acorn every now and then."
Valley.
...snip >4. Polyurethane, while strong enough for most applications, is not as >strong as yellow glue. Its primary advantage seems to be >water-resistance, and the fact it sticks to almost anything. . >I hope this helps. I'll be sticking with Titebond II and III, with an >occasional squirt of Gorilla for special applications. >
I had a bunch of kitchen and dining room chairs that sprung the cross pieces from the legs and repaired them with Gorilla glue. It was a PITA to keep the legs clean of the constant out-foaming of glue, and within a few weeks the chairs all sprung apart again anyway. Once again I carefully cleaned all the spindles and mortises and this time used yellow glue - have had no separations in the last two years. I threw the Gorilla glue in the can.
I'll bet it was. The trick is to let it foam and dry completely. Then go back and easily scrape off the excess.
Oddly I had the exact opposite experience. Several years later and Gorilla glue is still holding strong where yellow glue had failed miserably.
Maybe the looseness of the joints has something to do with the effectiveness of each glue? Don't know.
Joe Barta
From what I've read PU has almost no gap-filling ability (the foam has very little strength) while some PVA glues have at least moderate gap-filling ability (but not very much).
Epoxy, on the other hand, *requires* a bit of a gap to work properly, and can fill fairly substantial gaps itself.
Chris
Never thought of using epoxy for the chair. Actually sounds like a really good idea.
Oddly, the timing of this is interesting. Not more than 20 minutes ago I was in one of those chairs I repaired a few years ago with Gorilla glue. I leaned back a little hard and heard a crack. Seems I loosened the back/seat joints. This is the last of an old set, and if I recall, it did have rather wobbly joints. I had counted on the glue to also fill gaps. (The rest are still solid [knock,knock]... and they suffer the abuse of teenage boys tipping back on them all the time.)
I think maybe I'll try another repair using epoxy this time.
If you or anyone has a thought on a particular brand or type of epoxy for such a repair, I'd be interested in hearing it along with any reasons for your preference.
Joe Barta
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.