Many years ago I made a temporary trailer cover from one of those cheap
blue plastic woven sheets, some plastic "bang together" green eyelets and
a length of bungee cord. Oh, and Gaffer Tape reinforced corners.
The bungee cord snapped the other day and the cover was more or less
destroyed by being dragged along the road until we noticed this (nobody
flashed us up to warn us - did they assume this was some kind of prototype
road cleaning device?).
I need a new trailer cover. I could produce a similar version if I can
find all the bits in the mountain of crap but I am looking at alternatives
which might also make the trailer more secure.
The first thought is a piece of marine ply with wooden bits (batten?) to
fit inside the trailer and possibly a hinge/padlock arrangement.
Anyone done this kind of thing or made/bought another type of cover?
Trailer is approximately 1250 mm long by 1050 mm wide external
I do have a lot of spare bits of wood, just not marine ply. One
alternative would be painted WBP, which seems to last well as outside
fencing on building sites.
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64
Supplemental - if I go for a wood cover then I could need something to
securely clamp it.
Conveniently there is channel all the way round the side and a hook would
fit neatly into it.
So what I might need is something which is apparently called a "toggle
However these seem to be designed to work with a "toggle" (I assume) not
just hooking over a side channel. I can screw things to the galvanised
trailer but would prefer not to if possible.
From looking it seems that most applications have the catch on the side of
the trailer pulling the cover down, instead of on the cover pulling the
side up (IYSWIM).
P.S. is WBP the same as shuttering ply?
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64
I went for drilling and bolting hinges on.
The lid was just bigger than the trailer, with battens that fitted over
the trailer. On one side it was hinged to the trailer with lift-off
hinges (the battens prevented it being slid off when the lid was shut.
On the other side were hasps and padlocks. Ideal for leaving for a short
while at motorway services and the like.
Another thing I did was to make wooden panels. Three bolted together and
had threaded rods in the bottom edge to bolt down to the top edge of the
trailer and the fourth slid onto hinges on the rear, drop-down panel. A
couple of toggle latches held it into a box shape, giving 18" extension
sides that could be fitted or removed in about 15 minutes. A duplicate
set of hinges and hasps on the sides allowed the lid to go onto that if
needed. Once the lid was on, the rear panel could not be opened, even if
the latches were opened.
Unfortunately, some scrote nicked it from my parents' when they'd
borrowed it to collect a Christmas tree.
I haven't made replacement sides or top for my current trailer, as my
father has bought his own trailer and I made sides and top for that. So
I use my own trailer for dirty stuff, such as taking rbbish to the tip
and I nip round and borrow his for moving clean stuff or where I need
the extra height or a lid.
What tradies use here is a full metal cover with a peaked thing down
the middle of the trailer with the hinges for metal doors down that.
Unless its for big stuff like sound systems or motorbikes etc when its
usually a full metal body with hinged metal vertical doors at the back.
I chain my to the house with a high tensile chain. Corse that
wont stop someone with a battery powered angle grinder
but the noise from cutting that off and the thing on the
towing hitch that stops it being put on the tow bar would
see me sic the alsatian on them before they managed to
cut it and would result in tears before bed time for them.
By all means make a wooded cover for security, but it would be not that
watertight and in time might rot. As an alternative and maybe as well
If you find one of those companies which repairs and supplies the
curtains for curtain sider lorries and scrounge a bit of surplus
material from them? It is very easy to work with, you just heat weld it
at joints corners. A heat gun, plus a metal roller is all that is
needed to seal joints. Once done, they are extremely robust.
You can also get old advertising hoarding posters. The ones made of a thick plastic sheet and then clip in to the signs and pulled tight. I know someone who used to buy them for tarps so if interested I could find out where he got them.
On Tuesday, May 15, 2018 at 3:44:49 PM UTC+1, David WE Roberts (Google) wrote:
The water will gather on top of the marine ply, pool in the centre, and eventually destroy it unless you put a slope on it. Then you'll have to provide a drip edge and find some way to protect it.
Google boat canopies. Chances are you will find one locally and he will be more than happy to make you up a waterproof cover
1st thought is a rigid cover like that doesn’t allow any chance of of
squeezing something a little higher than normal whereas a flexible cover
with bungees or similar can be stretched a little, and in doing so can
apply a bit of downward pressure that holds a load in place.
A timber top won’t and any load under it may need additional securing
measures to stop it sliding about.
<snip> >Anyone done this kind of thing or made/bought another type of cover?
FWIW, I built a 1/2 tonne 6'6" x 4' x 4' high box trailer with full
height tailgate / ramp years ago (off an Indespension chassis) and
paneled it out with 1/2" WBP ply. I treated the ply inside and out
with Cuprinol, and primed, undercoated and top-coated the outside with
The original 'lid'' was more 1/2" ply made in two pieces with battens
across inside to both give it support and to hold it in place and then
a PVC top cover hooked down with elastics in the traditional way.
When I got a van I sold the trailer to a mate and some time later,
bought it off him again and cut it down to 18" high general goods
trailer. Along the line it had been left with water in it and so I cut
all the side panels down to make use of the good bits of ply and re
treated them inside and painted the outsides again.
Currently it' got the same two part lift off lid and a basic PVC top
cover and some extra tarp over the lot to keep more of the weather
I don't generally use it with the lid or cover on as most stuff I
carry is too high (the last thing being a 600cc motorbike). 
The smaller trailer has a bespoke H/D full depth cover but again, it's
not typically left on when in use.
Cheers, T i m
 I typically fit eyebolts to the inside 4 corners and often the
middle of the long edges of all my trailers as that makes holding
things (like motorbikes) down much easier.
I used the type that fit into seat-belt sockets to add a structure to a
horse trailer some years ago, and still have some spares, together with
a tap for fitting them to box section and the appropriate nuts for
fitting to sheet or angle iron. Readily available from eBay with various
shank lengths, used by rally/racing car builders for fitting full
harness seat belts. Last time I used them was to add securing points for
a 100 litre sprayer to the back of my ATV.
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