It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my modeling work I
usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine cups" [the kind they use
in hospitals] filled with various liquids -- custom mixed paint, glue, paint
thinners, etc -- on the bench and naturally I'm constantly knocking over one
or more of these almost every day.
The obvious solution would be to create a small base for them that's
tip-proof. Conceptually a 1-3/4" square of something like MDF in which
there's been bored a tapered hole that matches the taper of the cups would
work fine -- I've already done this with a straight-sided glue bottle that
was consistently in danger of tipping because the base was too narrow for
Anyway, I suppose I could drill a straight hole attack it with a rasp. I
could also, I guess, use my bandsaw with the table tilted. Both of these
seem like brute force and I keep thinking that there has to be a more
elegant way. I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's ~15
degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits that
would help much either.
| Do you have a wood lathe? It is a simple matter to cut tapers with it,
| checking the fit as you go. Without a lathe I would use a coarse half
| round rasp to do the job.
Alas, no. I have a radial arm saw, mini table saw, 9" band saw, bench drill
press, ... but no lathe.
I'm not sure what angle it is, but I've seen a drill bit that was designed
to cut candle holes. It might do for what you want (sorry, but I don't know
where I saw it).
You might also be able to modify a spade bit to the shape that you want with
careful grinding of the edges to form the correct taper.
"Norm Dresner" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
I don't know your skill level or your tool availability. You can
accomplish what you want with a cheap paddle bit (Irwin speed bore
type bit). Grind or file the taper on the sides of the drill.
This works quite well for candle holders too.
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
Time to find a buddy who has a machine shop and barter.
What you want is very easy to make if you have access to a small metal
working lathe and a "Bridgeport" (universal) milling machine.
Many years ago I needed exactly what you are looking for to install
tapered thru hulls in boats.
My friend, also a boater, had a machine shop and came to the rescue.
> A universal milling machine is a type of horizontal mill, not a
Right you are, guess I've been away from machine tools too long.
> You're quite right though, a custom made cutter would be easy enough.
> can he pay for it.
The operative word is barter<G>.
| > It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my modeling
| > usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine cups" [the kind they
| > in hospitals] filled with various liquids -- custom mixed paint, glue,
| > thinners, etc -- on the bench and naturally I'm constantly knocking over
| > or more of these almost every day.
| > The obvious solution would be to create a small base for them that's
| > tip-proof. Conceptually a 1-3/4" square of something like MDF in which
| > there's been bored a tapered hole that matches the taper of the cups
| > work fine -- I've already done this with a straight-sided glue bottle
| > was consistently in danger of tipping because the base was too narrow
| > the height.
| > Anyway, I suppose I could drill a straight hole attack it with a rasp.
| > could also, I guess, use my bandsaw with the table tilted. Both of
| > seem like brute force and I keep thinking that there has to be a more
| > elegant way. I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's
| > degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits
| > would help much either.
| > Suggestions welcome.
| Why not epoxy some spare cups to a board, and then just drop
| (stack) your working cups into the fixed ones?
That's the simplest solution of all.
Also, if I do want to get ambitious, modifying a spade bit is also a good
But not the most elegant! I've done just a bit of googling and haven't
found what I'm (you're) looking for. They make small tapered bits for
pilot holes, and I've found some larger ones made for metal, but no
dedicated ww'ing bits. I've got to figure that somebody makes them.
Don't chair makers need bits like these?
Probably the least expensive as well. Now I want to find the real
Chairmakers bits http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/clifton_bits.htm
someone else used to carry them, but I can't find my link nor did I
see them at Lee Valley. If this bit isn't big enough then you'ld have
to get or make a reamer.
Norm Dresner (in
Q3XQf.13336$ email@example.com) said:
| It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my
| modeling work I usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine
| cups" [the kind they use in hospitals] filled with various liquids
| -- custom mixed paint, glue, paint thinners, etc -- on the bench
| and naturally I'm constantly knocking over one or more of these
| almost every day.
| Suggestions welcome.
If the cups are tapered, I'd think you'd only need to drill a straight
hole that's a bit smaller than the top of the cup.
If you're determined to have tapered holes, KBC Tools
http://www.kbctools.com sells tapered milling cutters in just about
every taper angle you could want (I bought a 5-degree taper for
routing box lid lips). I'd clamp the workpiece to the drill press
table, drill a straight hole using the bottom (small) diameter, and
(without loosening the clamps!) "drill" again using the tapered mill
with the drill press running at its highest speed.
DeSoto, Iowa USA
Fill spare cup with cement. Leave a threaded metal rod centered in the
concrete. You could do this by putting into a scrap board and balancing
over the cup. When dried, glue some sandpaper to the outside of the
cup. Chuck in the DP and Sand to size.
However, I agree with the comment that you are over-thinking. A round
hole should work fine.
i love the concrete idea.
standard tapers in machine tooling, including reamers, are Morse, Browne &
Sharpe, Jarno, American National Standard Machine Tapers, American National
Standard Taper Pipe.
After consulting about seventeen cross-referenced tables I realized these
large = expensive anyways. You could get an entire concrete truck delivered
to the country.
I've never even tried reaming wood.
what am i doing?
After much consideration, I finally decided to try out the new RTV casting
stuff I have. I'm going two ways:
1. I made a negative mold with a bottom section of a cup upside down in a
cylindrical hole. I'm going to pour RTV into this and use the rubber
directly as a holder for the cups.
2. I took some Sculpey clay formed a base and then drove the bottom of the
cup into it to form the master from which I'll pour RTV to make new molds.
Assuming none of this works, I'll probably take a few used cups, cut them
down, and glue them onto a plywood base which I'll use as holders for new
I'd love to have actually been able to drill a tapered hole into a block of
wood but it's really infeasible and most of the other suggestions are sort
of like taking a shotgun to a fly.
Thanks for all the brainpower that went into this.
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