Mike - I'm just going to take a shot at this here, it is hard to say
without the piece in front of me. I going to guess that you have it
cleaning stripped, with the mechanism, barrel, etc. all removed from
the wood parts. I will also assume that you have cleaned all powder
residue from in front of the reciever (around the piston), and the
trigger assembly. Solvents and cleaners could redissolve anything in
those areas and contaminate your finish.
This could be an easier fix than you think.
Most of the older military stocks I have seen were finished with some
kind of modified lacquer or varnish, then they were often touched up
by someone in the armory with linseed oil from time to time. Moreover
as they wore, they picked up a generous dose of all manner of barrel
cleaners, solvents, and lubricants just like your other guns.
The cleaners, ground in dirt from wear, and deteriorating age of the
finish cause it to break down and the resins to become brittle. When
the resins become brittle, they are a snap to sand off - unless in
your case you have residual oils, dirt and many other contaminates in
the mix. My experience in refinishing would lead me to believe that
the pores are probably clogged with the old finish, not sanding dust.
This is the way to get that stuff out. Go to a paint store (HD may
have this stuff) and get the Bix stripper in the orange and black
can. It is called something like K5 or similar. Look for the orange
in the label. Don't substitute one of those organic removers or
orange oil products - they don't work. The Bix on the other hand
should lift off the finish easily, but wear gloves and work with it
outside. It will easily burn your skin as well.
Get yourself a about half a gallon of clean sawdust. Not planer
shavings, not chainsaw chips, but sawdust. One of my refinishing
buddies gets his from a guy at HD that runs the cutting saw for sheet
goods if you need to find some. Make sure it is clean - no cig butts,
nails, pieces of wire, gravel or anything else.
Put the stripper on one piece of the wood and wait about 10 minutes.
You may need to re-wet this, don't let it dry out. Put some of your
sawdust (this is your deep cleaning abrasive) on the wet wood, and
scrub hard with stiff brush. You won't believe how much stuff will
come off. With a stiff brush and plenty of elbow grease, that you can
clean those pores out completely.
This is exactly how I refinish doors on site. I don't dip them, steam
them, heat gun them... nothing but stripper, sawdust and stiff brushes
(like a tile grout brush).
You may need to do this more than once to get the wood really clean.
A couple of tips; try to time the how many minutes you leave the
stripper on in each area you work. This will help you keep the wood
from turning out different colors when stripped. DAMHIKT. Same when
Allow the cleanly scrubbed stock to dry thoroughly. Soak a rag to
just before dripping with lacquer thinner and wash off any residue of
gunk, stripper, dissolved stuff, and anything else from the stock.
Let it dry (10 minutes). Wash again if needed.
Sand to the desired grit. Clean with lacquer thinner one more time,
then apply your finish.
So tell me. Is this a newer repro from someone like Springfield
Armory or is this the real deal from late 50s/early 60s? When I had a
chance to buy one a few years ago, I didn't, and now I never see them
anymore except with the composite and fiberglass stocks. Still
kicking myself in the ass as all it came down to was the fact I didn't
want to let go of the dough and I didn't want to pay for the ammo.