Clamping Squares and VaryAngle clamping elements (2023 Update)

So It is quiet here and I thought I would inquire about other's thoughts on these tools. In another thread we were briefly mentioning Woodpeckers tools and I think we are seeing another tool being offered that rally serves no purpose.

There are numerous varieties of corner clamping tools offered by various companies. And I have never felt that they actually helped in clamping assembly.

My experience has been that they do not eliminate the traditional clamp for mating parts. I see that they do hold the parts at a specific angle but do little to nothing as far as closing the joint tightly. So, you still need regular clamps to make that joint a tight one.

Having said that I have Baltic birch clamping squares that I use to check squatness of a joint. On occasion I use them to hold a joint square after I have used my traditional clamps to close the joint.

If a joint is cut correctly, it is self squaring. and or aligning. Why the need for something like the new Woodpeckers VaryClamp? This tool simply holds the angle of the parts but does not pull the parts together. These type clamps seldom are shown being used with any other type clamp. And with that in mind, I can tell you that only using these type clamps will result in a weak joint that is not properly closed.

That said I have seen a couple of corner clamps that do actually pull the joints together. One style is aimed at picture frames and they have teeth that dig into the mating parts and pulls them together tightly at the joint.

For the most part, the right angle clamping squares can help hold things in alignment for certain conditions. But they bring nothing to the table to make the closure of the joint tight. AND most 90 degree cuts are easy to replicate time and again so these type clamps hold straight stock square while using traditional clamps to close the joint.

The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles. And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever. Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces of work at a specific angle.

I could actually see using this type clamp with metal work, getting the pieces close and filling the gap with a weld.

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Thoughts?

Reply to
Leon
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They're not a replacement for parallel clamps.

Right, they're used to keep the "squatness" of the panels. ;-) Since you use Baltic Birch, you have 9o% of the problem solved. Other less fortunate people (ones who have to pay $200+ a sheet) have panels that aren't quite flat and have to "entice" the edges to meet. Clamping squares help getting it right until the glue dries. Parallel (ish) clamps are still needed to keep pressure on the joint. The square just keeps them aligned.

Your first sentence says it all. Not all of us can assume flat. Square isn't hard, as long as it's sorta flat. Getting it flat is another problem.

But that's not what they're for.

Exactly

I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.

I guess if you're building other than square boxes but I don't see it either. They look like they're a solution looking for a problem. It also looks like you'd have to be an octopus to use them. Then there is the problem of getting them set right and holding that wet.

I don't plan on buying any. They're not even red.

Reply to
krw

I do a lot of picture frames and have made some boxes using this clamp' veritas-4-way-speed-clamp

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It is the quickest and easiest clamps I have found.

Since it is basically 1/4-20 threaded rod with the corner clamps, the system can be expanded with a visit to the hardware store.

Similar systems area available in many places

I have used the system on some quite large frames up to 40" on a side. As with any frame it is critical that the opposite sides be the exact length.

I have also used the system to make boxes. I use one set near the bottom of the sides and a second set near the top.

Once the corner are lined up exactly, the miter angle do the squaring up the the frame. I always check using a simple square.

I would recommend the system to any one making any thing similar.

Initial cost is similar to other systems. (about $35/set) and since it breaks down completely storage is simple.

Reply to
knuttle

Do you have to spin the knob to change the size of the clamp or does it have a quick release mechanism. Turning the knob seems like a RPITA.

Reply to
krw

Good to know.

Something I just now found, A Rockler tool. It seems to fill the bill and runs up quite the bill if you get a full set.

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Reply to
Leon

Snip

Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.

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Reply to
Leon

Most of the 1 & 2 star reviews complain that while the casing is aluminum, the gear is plastic and breaks under use.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

I could not argue with that but it works as advertised. It does what the vast majority of these type corner clamps don't do, squeeze the joint together.

Reply to
Leon

Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for you!

The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to the opposite corner?

The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is going to fix it.

Reply to
krw

I had the same thought.

I had the same thought.

The other thing I saw - but I don't build frames, so maybe it's not an issue - was that they say (and show) that you have room to put a brad in the outer corner. My question is this:

Without the clamp in the way wouldn't you use more than one brad? Is one brad way out on the corner like they show enough?

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Until the gear breaks because you are trying to squeeze the joint together. ;-)

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Maybe just buy one clamp. LOL

Yup!

Reply to
Leon

One brad until the glue dries. Thank you Norm.

Reply to
Leon

I don't think I've ever seen Norm use *one* brad. ;-)

Reply to
DerbyDad03

He did not have this clamp.

Reply to
Leon

For mitered picture frames I simply pin nailed the joints and let the glue dry. Other goofy devices never worked enough to bother with. The key is always having a perfectly square joint to start with.

I did save a picture of this homemade jig that looks like it should work:

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never used it however.

Reply to
Jack

Exactly

Yeah those should work, there are also some versions that you can buy. Unfortunately you need a boat load of small clamps, 12 for a single 4 sided clue up.

Reply to
Leon

I don't think that jig will work.

It looks like the G-clamps are two different colors. If it's just the lighting, then you should be good to go.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

I just noticed the "G" designation. I have never known those clamps to be anything other then "C" clamps.

Reply to
Leon

When fully open, it's a C-clamp. Once you turn the screw up a little ways, it becomes a G-clamp. ;-)

Even Wikipedia doesn't know what to call it. Maybe the C comes from the shape of the body or maybe the C comes from the original name: Carriage Clamp or maybe Wikipedia is wrong.

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Reply to
DerbyDad03

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