Did I read correctly??
You want to use Cherry wood on a floor??
Are you planning on not walking on it with shoes?
(take a piece of wood, use your thumb nail and try to make an
indentation, now think about a woman in high heels.)
If I remember right, 6 years ago I priced making a dining room
table to be about $600.00 + for raw stock solid cherry, so a whole floor
would be about .....
Here's my experience:
I put down vertical-grain cherry in my office and in my guest cottage. It's
true that it's a bit soft, but we're a 'shoes-off' house, and the casters on
the office chairs run are on area rugs, so we're not having too much of a
problem so far. If I let an office chair run off of the rug I can see marks
on the flooring, so I'm pretty careful. The floor's so fine-looking that I
think it's worth a little extra care.
The wood I used is something they call 'backer', and if memory serves I got
it for about $2.00 per board foot from Edensaw in Port Townsend, Washington.
It's a slice right through the middle of the tree, so you end up with
vertical grain boards. You need to discard the center of the board and the
sap wood, so by the time you've milled it out the price is up to around
$2.50 per board foot. I managed to get mostly 4" and 5" widths, with a few
at 3". I milled it square edged, so as to keep as much width as I could, and
put it down with screws, and then plugged the screw holes with plugs that I
cut out of the offcuts. It gives an effect much like a boat deck.
Nooooo, not that <g>. I am also planning on using cherry unfinished 3/4
stock for my kitchen floor. What turned me on to it was seeing a cherry
floor in a house (random widths). I would suspect the house was 10 years
old or so. The floors were beautiful. Slightly distressed but that is what
turned me on. Before I saw the cherry floor, my heart had been set on cvg
fir. I like the distressed look personally.
The flooring guy that did our new house said that pine was getting to be
hip. I'd asked about it because I thought it would be suitable for my
workshop - but he charges more for the pine flooring than anything else
(at least more than oak, cherry, or birch (what we ended up going with
in the rest of the house - jury's still out on the workshop)).
A builder buddy of mine just did a redwood floor in his own house.
It's really cool looking! I'd never heard of it before he did it.
Try Tavern grade oak. It's solid oak, but with tight knots, color
imperfections, etc... It looks great in a shop, and can be had for
$0.99 / sq/ft in many locales.
For that matter, investigate the lower grades of ash, maple or birch.
Many flooring shops only offer select and clear grade unless you ask.
My first house had oak floors with a 1" strip of inlaid cherry
about 12" from the walls (and arabesque around the living room
fireplace hearth). The floors had had no care for the previous
eleven years; and were in rough condition.
The cherry had not fared noticably worse than the oak. I sanded
the whole works with a 5" portable belt sander; and we applied
seven coats of urethane (sanding the penultimate with 600 grit
silicon carbide) and not only was it beautiful - but the entire
floor, oak and cherry both, stayed beautiful.
The cherry added a wonderful touch of warmth.
A "brute force" purchase might be expensive. On the other hand,
sometimes a little networking, hunkering, horse-trading, etc.
pays off quite well...
For Oregon area: My first try would be Crosscut Hardwoods in Portland
and Seattle. Second try would be towards Hardwood Industries in
Tualatin, Oregon plus other locations. Third shot would be Moxon
Hardwood in Portland.
I'm positive both Crosscut and H.I. have web presences for contact and
location plus maybe more detailed info on what you're looking for.
Hello, I have cherry in my bedroom, which also doubles as an office,
so it's not exactly low traffic. I also do not have a "shoes off" kind
of house. I'm not sure why some of you are having so many problems
with wearability. I've sold a lot of cherry flooring,as well, and
havn't had anyone complain. Honestly, it's my favorite floor. I have
red oak, ash, hickory, red elm, and hard maple, too. The cherry is
holding up fine, but the rest could use a fresh coat. Maybe it's just
that the cherry hides flaws better because it's darker. Incidently, I
can't stand the hard maple. It shows everything. One trick I've
learned though is to use oil based finishes. I start with a high
gloss, which is harder than satin and, because it's thinner, will soak
into the wood more and harden it. I then follow up with a couple of
coats of satin because it doesn't show the scratches as much. I tell
my customers to do this as well. Maybe that's why I don't have any
problems with cherry. I actually took pictures for my website of my
floor and the finish was 5 years old. Jana
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