Cherry baseboard

[Jim Bailey]

I just finished a cherry vanity and mirror for our newly remodeled bathroom. As I was admiring it, I had a thought that Cherry baseboard around the bathroom sure would look great with that.

I need less than 20 feet. I've found several cutters with a decent profile for the first 2" or so at the top, something along these lines

but that still leaves about 1 1/2" (on a 3 1/2" baseboard) that I should do something with - not just flat - some sort of simple decorative effect at the botom half of the molding.

Anyone ever done anything like this ?? Or did you just buy the molding ? If so, where ?

jim

[C & E]

but that still leaves about 1 1/2" (on a 3 1/2" baseboard) that I should

If you're only doing 20' and don't plan on using the cutters again it's hardly worth the expense of buyng cutter that you probably won't be using again. Look in the yellow pages for a lumbar yard that does millwork - call around or look in the online Yellow Pages in some nearby towns. One of the best ones in my area is really out in the middle of nowhere and they will cut to your specs. Of course, for 20' you'll pay a premium because of the setup time they have to incur for any custom job. You just might find something off-the-rack that you like and can stain a matching color.

[TeamCasa]

Jim, Buy the bit. After all, aren't we all looking for an excuse to buy more tools! After you are all done, you may feel inspired to do more and you will be happier than buying or having someone else make it for you.

BTW For a baseshoe mounding, you only need to mill the top profile and maybe a bottom cove or bead. Leave the rest flat.

Dave

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[Tom Watson]

Good taste is knowing when to say, "Stop".

The reason that you have found those cutters is that most folks try to replicate a three piece base.

Profile the top of your board as you will, I don't know what you already have going on, so I will not suggest.

The bottom of the base should be a shoe, in my opinion.

If you start tarting up the field it will look like someone put casing on the base - you don't want that.

In a general sense, the top fifth of the base is available for profiling. Then you need a bit more than three fifths for the plain field. The shoe takes up the rest.

An interesting question is how the base intersects the vanity.

I have always been a fan of the idea that the vanity base should be at the height of the room base, less the top profile.

Just an opinion.

Tom Watson - WoodDorker tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email)

(website)

[krg]

but that still leaves about 1 1/2" (on a 3 1/2" baseboard) that I should do

This brand is good stuff but pricey, at least you can see some of the common profiles.

[nlbauers]

but that still leaves about 1 1/2" (on a 3 1/2" baseboard) that I should do

I'm with those that say leave a blank field between in the middle of the baseboard. The last thing I would want to do is draw a guests eye to the edges and corners of my bathroom floor, away from that beautiful vanity.

Neil

[Robatoy]

*gasp*....."STAIN"????

[Mark L.]

but that still leaves about 1 1/2" (on a 3 1/2" baseboard) that I should do

[Jim Bailey]

Tom - thanks for the education. After looking at some of the available basboard profiles on the net, I see what you are saying. At some point, it becomes case molding. I will keep it simple.

jim

do

[Jim Bailey]

Good link - helped me understand the 'cut-off point' between base molding and case molding. Thanks Kevin.

jim

[Jim Bailey]

As always - a bunch of great feedback. Thanks a lot guys !

jim

but that still leaves about 1 1/2" (on a 3 1/2" baseboard) that I should do

[Wayne Whitney]

Is this from an aesthetic point of view? I've never found them appealing aesthetically, but perhaps I am missing something. Of course, they are very practical in a retrofit, for covering the bottom edge of the base (hard to paint) and the outside edge of a wood floor (hard to sand/finish).

Cheers, Wayne