I was struck by the same thing - are you discounting the low angle plane for any particular reason? Seem like changing the blade to change the cut is easier than changing the frog.
I was struck by the same thing - are you discounting the low angle plane for any particular reason? Seem like changing the blade to change the cut is easier than changing the frog.
I'll quote it again. Excepting sandpaper, a card scraper is one of the first "neander" finishing tools I obtained - that and a good file and HSS burnishing rod. Properly prepared, a scraper is an amazing thing. The hook can be adapted somewhat to deal with varying conditions.
And unlike sandpaper, it doesn't dig into soft spots or glaze over glue drips. But (to me) the best thing is the quite hiss of the tool and the relative lack of dust flying through the air and lungs. And while my thumbs may get cramped, it beats your whole hand vibrating for an hour after a "power sanding" session.
Even a well set up $10 palm plane can do some impressive things. (I wouldn't know about high-dollar planes, 'cause I can't afford 'em.)
And as much as I love and depend on power planers and jointers, there is no way they leave a surface "ready to finish". The characteristic pattern of "cuts-per-inch" leaves a telltale indicator behind.
FWIW,
Greg G.
I'm inclined to believe that the demo was rigged. A proprly sharpened scraper cuts chips, same as a plane. If he was getting dust (bet he was), something was not right.
You can eliminate quite a bit of sanding. but curves and such are easier to sand. but depending on the woods one plane may not do it all. you may need higher angled planes. plus the key thing is your ability to tune and use the plane. this is the biggest key factor in the whole idea. Knight-Toolworks
Where I can fit a spokeshave does not see sanding.
Yes they can. HOWEVER you need to have a very light cut on the blade, have cambered the blade so as to not leave any plane tracks.
Took a handtool class with Rob Cosman in Canada last summer. The finish off his pieces from the LN 5 1/2 he used was perfect. If you APPLY a finish, the difference becomes moot.
Just completed and ready to finish a pair of floating shelves, I handplaned and scraped them for a bit, and then took a 1/4 sheet sander to them to fix my own errors of not cambering my blade enough. The amount of sanding was mere minutes total and I likely over did the time necessary. With the planed/scrapped surfaces, there was no need to sand out knicks or tearout from the planer. Just remove a couple of raised ridges from a knicked planer knife.
May I ask: How are you planning to attach the shelves to the wall?
May i ask, how are you planning to attach the shelves to the wall?
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