I don't want to be an alarmist, but a couple of developments:
1) I have been looking at the G0453 surface planer for some
time.....too long as it turns out. I called Grizzly earlier today to
see if the price would be stable after the end of the year. The young
lady on the phone would not commit, other than to say that the new
catalog would be out next week and to watch the web site after the 4th
of January. Well, the mail came an hour ago with a NEW GRIZZLY
CATALOG!! But the price on the %$@&^ G0453 has gone up $45!
2) The Grizzly catalog does not list many Shop Fox items, so the
T21849 is not there; and there is no sign of a G1023SLW. However the
G1023RL series are still there. It appears as though the old baseline
1023S is gonzo too. No real surprise because they appear to be moving
toward riving knife saws.
It looks like the G1023RL is priced at $1,125, a little more than the
one you linked.
Don't know how close you are to ordering but a quick internet order
might save you a few bucks.
I want to thank all of you who responded. The feedback received is
excellent. I will check Craig's List before making any decision. That
was a great piece of advice.
This is, without a doubt, the most helpful group on the web.
On Tue, 05 Jan 2010 21:36:05 -0800, the infamous charlie b
My last birthday wishlist contained a request, which was fulfilled,
for Paul Anthony's book, _Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to
Tablesaws_. I received it and it refreshed what I'd learned here over
the course of a decade. It's basic, but it's all good info.
Q for Left-tilters: Is LT really that much more beneficial than a RT
blade, or is it just a tad more safe?
We rightly care about the environment. But our neurotic obsession
with carbon betrays an inability to distinguish between pollution
and the stuff of life itself. --Bret Stephens, WSJ 1/5/10
Safer on one just one cut IME (narrow angled rip), but then you can
effectively do the same on many RT/fence combo's by moving the fence to
the left side of the blade.
Other than that it is more of a personal preference ... strictly my
opinion having used both.
Howsoever, it is easier to clean my LT out because the cover is on the
left outside and not under the extension table.
Swingman's got it.
It's safer on a beveled rip cut. The primary benefit is that the offcut
is not trapped between the blade and the fence. If you put the fence to
the left of the blade you can get he same effect with a right tilt saw.
This is an unusual configuration with tablesaws for some reason,
although it's common with bandsaws. Go figure.
On Wed, 6 Jan 2010 12:06:58 -0800 (PST), " firstname.lastname@example.org"
There's no reason you have to use it on the left side (of the blade).
I'm not sure why "left side of the fence" is relevant anyway, since
I'll often remove the fence from the table when the crosscut is large.
In fact I heard a fellow named Hendrick Varju, who has been writing
articles for Fine Woodworking and making "how to woodwork" DVD's, say
on a podcast that he uses his miter guage on the right side whenever
I doubt he is the only one.
I thought it easier on the left too, given that there is a lot of
table on that side, but I had to pick which way to set up the gauge,
so chose the "standard". I may change it back (but that'll require a
new tape measure sticker) because I don't like reaching across the
blade and I usually stand to the right of the blade.
The beveled rip operation on an RT should be performed with the fence to
the left of the blade. Period.
There is no safy tradeoff if you put the fence in the correct position.
Therefore, the downside to RT is that bevel rip operations have less
capacity. Also, I find that ripping in this configuration is less eronomic
for me as a right-handed person; YMMV.
The upside to RT is that your fence scale will read accurately even with a
dado set loaded.
I have an RT and If I had to buy again, RT vs. LT would be pretty far down
on priority list for selecting a saw.
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