We have finally found an old warehouse type building to move into. The usual
flat roof (good condition, light insulation) and concrete block construction.
What is going to be the best way (heavy consideration on the cost, present and
future)to make it somewhat energy effecient. About 60% of the second floor
ceiling is batted. The rest is not but does have a suspended ceiling. I'm
mainly concerned about the outside walls. Do we stud, insulate and sheetrock
the inside or eps and "drive-it" the outside? Or is there a better way? The
building is two story, 5k per floor. Help! By the way, we're in Oklahoma, so
the summer sun is a definite consideration.
Thanks for the correction on the Dryvit. I was wondering where the thermal
mass would do the most good. I've thought about the radiant barrier "paint"
coating also, maybe that on the outside and then insulate the inside. We're
wanting to do an industrial type loft so wall shelving isn't necessary. I
suppose a deal on some sip panel might work as well. We would like to retain
some of the block wall texture but maybe that on the south wall for efficiency.
Do you know anything about the radiant barrier material? I hadn't thought
about the stud center placement but that is a great idea. I wonder if using 6"
studs (and more insulation) would add that much to the efficency and would metal
studs be that much less effecient than wood? BTW, thanks for the response.
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
The studs are a significant thermal leakage path through the
insulation, one more reason to got to 24 OC.
Metal studs are significantly worse thermal leaks than wood
studs. I don't have the numbers handy but you can probably
find them with the help of Google.
Look into foam filling the block wall. It will solve air infiltration,
sound, heat and cold problems. There are several contractors in Oklahoma
We have been doing this on new Putnam City Schools.
Your best money will be spent on ceiling insulation, door and window
caulking/sealing, maintaining the HVAC equipment.
Where in town are you?
Keep the whole world singing. . . .
Thanks for the response. We have a contract on 4900 N Sewell in
OKC. Thats just east of Broadway and just south of NW 50th. We close
on Jan 29th or before, hopefully. I guess we'll be almost right behind
Ellis Construction referred to in your links. I don't know if there
will be access to the ccblock wall for filling. Why does foam filling
effect the R value when the concrete has such a low value (1.1 /in)?
Are you with one of the local companies? We would like to put a much
better roof on the building but from a cost standpoint we will probably
live with the existing for a while and finish insulating the ceiling
inside. So many options, it's hard to knoww where to go first. Thanks
Filling the cores is often done with new construction. You can buy inserts
that go into the blocks, or, after construction bead can be blown into the
cores. They both work, but not as good as full insulation. Products like
Poly Core and Korfil can only be used in new construction before the block
is laid. Loose filling can be done as long as there is access to the top
course openings. It will not fill voids under windows unless done in new
construction before the window is placed. In either case, the mortar lines
and webs are still poor insulators.
No, no connection with local contractor. I work for Putnam City Schools,
The foam work we have had done was through the masonry contractor on new
work, so I have no direct recommendation. When we have had the foam fill
work, the contractors elected to drill multiple holes above and below bond
beams to inject the foam. Block work typically has a horizontal and
vertical concrete filled block every 4 feet each way. The holes were quite
small. I think it would work quite well for existing especially if it easy
to get to the walls, though we have not done so. We tend to spend our
dollars on window, roof, and equipment upgrades.
EIFS (Dryvit) provides an excellent method to upgrade the exterior look and
insulation factor of the building. Bruce Moss at Moss plastering or H&W
plastering would be good ones.
We tend to stay with modified bitumen roofing over foam board insulation on
the roofs. Southwest Roofing, perhaps the largest in the state, will be one
of your new neighbors (they face Sante Fe) If you want a smaller, service
oriented, contractor call Larry Hedinger at G&L Roofing. We are looking at
foam roof possibilities, a young man in that business is Keith Durham, H&H
roofing, 417-5463, if you want to look into it.
What type of facility are you creating? I don't imagine there is any
relationship with Ron Moore glass company in Edmond. If I can be of
assistance, send me a personal email.
Keep the whole world singing. . . .
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