Brad Nail Holes What's Best Way to Fill Them?

Feb 25, 2005 24 Replies

Well, I see at least 3 reasonable approaches here, and I'll add another. In one case I stained and finished all the pieces before assembly. For the nail holes I made filler using sawdust and glue, adding enough stain so it matched when dry. Test this first, as the dust will take the stain differently. For each hole, stuck some in and immediately wiped with a damp sponge. The finish prevented either the stain or the glue from sticking at all, and it easily wiped clean. Did several hundred nail holes this way.

After it dries, check with a raking light. You may find a few holes that aren't completely filled, and do a second pass.

One variation where you have a gloss finish is to apply only enough finish to seal, then the final finish coats after the holes are filled, so the filled holes have the same gloss.

Note: If you should end up staining after nailing, often a dark stain will cause the hole to be outlined because of the grain difference. Even nailing through tape may not prevent this, so try it first. Just don't ask me how I learned it.

GerryG

Thank you. It sounds like you know what you're talking about. I'm going to start by testing your method. I've no shortage of sawdust.

I suggest that you test the old time method before you pick a specific method of filling the hole.

Take a similar piece of wood and shoot it. Put a tiny dab of white glue in the brad hole, then sand with fine grit. The hole fills in with the sawdust and the glue holds it in place. The less glue the better, but fill the hole even if you have to add glue a second time. Don't use carpenters glue, just white glue. Stain. Finding the filled nail hole should be difficult. Also works very well on 45 degree joints where a little filler is needed in places to mask a less than perfect cut.

I might use brad nails for some painted furniture projects, and in that case I follow the advice of the brad Godfather Norm and use 33 glazing compound.

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