Ask Norm. He has more experience than anyone I know. The other day
there was a close-up shot of Brad-O-Matic and it clearly showed that
his brads are slightly countersunk. This means he MUST be leaving them
in after the glue sets otherwise he's have to make craters to get them
out. And this was on an exterior piece of gingerbread (fancy trim)
Well, I see at least 3 reasonable approaches here, and I'll add another. In
one case I stained and finished all the pieces before assembly. For the nail
holes I made filler using sawdust and glue, adding enough stain so it matched
when dry. Test this first, as the dust will take the stain differently. For
each hole, stuck some in and immediately wiped with a damp sponge. The finish
prevented either the stain or the glue from sticking at all, and it easily
wiped clean. Did several hundred nail holes this way.
After it dries, check with a raking light. You may find a few holes that
aren't completely filled, and do a second pass.
One variation where you have a gloss finish is to apply only enough finish to
seal, then the final finish coats after the holes are filled, so the filled
holes have the same gloss.
Note: If you should end up staining after nailing, often a dark stain will
cause the hole to be outlined because of the grain difference. Even nailing
through tape may not prevent this, so try it first. Just don't ask me how I
Your welcome, and here's a follow-up--
Somewhere inside the cabinet, either write on the wood or place a label
identifying your finishing schedule, including exact stain and finish. Five
years from now you'll be glad you did this.
with any furniture I make for people, I include a small touch-up bottle. Offen
a toner made from a little stain and finish. With a thin brush they can hide
small scratches that penetrate to bare wood.
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