Box joints with and Akeda Jig?

[patriarch]

Has anyone had any success with the Akeda jig, doing box joints? When I bought the jig, I spent the extra $18 for the special sized bit, and intended to do some utility boxes, but got busy on other projects.

Tonight, I thought I'd build a few storage cases for some new/old handplanes, and brought out the jig, and all the manuals, etc.

Frustration #1: The instructions, extremely complete and well illustrated for most of the dovetail operations, are brief, terse and well, not particularly enlightening.

Frustration #2: The special sized bit did not fit the guide collar I'd been using for all of the other operations with this jig. The internal size of the opening is just smaller than the outside diameter of the cutter. If I were cutting joints in 3/4" stock, it might work. But these boxes are probably overbuilt in 1/2" baltic birch. 3/8" would be fine. I don't want dovetails.

Frustration #3: Likely my own problem, but I'm trying to understand how to offset the last pair of joints to allow for the 1/8" saw kerf needed to cut off the box top.

OK. I feel better now. BTW, I really don't want to build another jig, or do these on the tablesaw. I gave up for tonight, and dragged out the small sled, and built the first set of boxes with mitered corners, which I will reinforce with contrasting keys. But the next ones....

Patriarch

[D. J. Dorn]

I don't have the jig but really like box joints. I built the Lynn Jig (For less than $18) which allows me to use any size, any depth and even variable spacing if I want - all with a single 1/8" blade. Took me a couple of days to get it down to a science but now I do a whole box in two passes. May want to at least consider it.

"patriarch [e-mail]" Has anyone had any success with the Akeda jig, doing box joints? When I

[ray]

The instructions on the page you cite look very good for building the jig. Have you any links to using the jig? Probably it ought to be self-evident, but I'm thick. I've used the kind of jig with an indexing pin, but that does have some disadvantages, in that you need a different jig for every size of joint. Thanks.

Ray

[D. J. Dorn]

Yes, there is a place on his sight that points to a PDF. To be honest, I found that a little confusing because it was talking about the use of a 3/32 blade and the counting would have been mind numbing. I have tried an 1/8 blade and a dado stack and have the best results with a 1/8 blade. The idea is that with every turn of the handle, you move the carriage 1/16". As an example, today I cut some 3/8" box joints. Set the blade height to just a scad over the width of the board, put all four boards into the jig (actually a little heavy, even with the clamp). Make the cut, turn the handle twice (for an 1/8") cut again, turn twice and cut again. After the 3/8" cut, you have to leave a 3/8" space so turn the handle six times, then two more so you leave the full 3/8" space, then do it again until the board is cut. So it's cut, turn 2, cut, turn 2, cut, turn 8 and start again. Flip the boards over and reverse the turn of the handle to bring the carriage back the other way. If you have to loosen or tighten which you shouldn't have to do if you have a true 1/8" blade, figure that you adjust by turning the handle one half turn (1/32").

I know it sounds complicated but it isn't at all. If there is any drawback, it's that you need to keep track of turns but for the versatility this jig gives me without any additional parts or having to use a dado stack, it's a very small price to pay. I've used it for everything from a 4' x 3' oak cabinet with 3/8" joints to a small jewelry box of 1/2 stock using 1/8" joints and they both fit perfectly. Good luck and if you have any more questions, feel free to email and I'll try and help.

D>

[ray]

Don, thanks very much-- the idea is becoming clearer. I'll look at the pdf-- I assumed that it was just a repackaging of the web page.

Ray