Blistering Veneer!

Nov 07, 2005 5 Replies

Hi there,



I applied some "iron-on" Cedan maple veneer to some baltic birch cabinet doors. Unfortunately, when I spayed the doors with some water-based urethane ("Varathane") I noticed 3, 1 inch sized blisters on the doors. What can I do to fix this? I don't suppose I can take the iron to them again with the new urethane?



Thanks



Marc



I'm thinking you might have to do just that. You may also need to provide an escape for the air you've trapped under the veneer. A tiny pinhole or slit (along the grain) at an edge of the pocket, and roll out to the edge.Then sand lightlyand re-spray. HTH. Tom

I've never tried it, but this seems like it should work. 'Borrowed' from

"Occasionally, bubbles or "blisters" will form in a veneer in an area where there is an insufficient amount of glue in that particular spot on the substrate. To repair a blister, drill two small holes -- each about

1/32-inch (figure F).

Use a syringe to squeeze yellow glue into the blister until it pops out of the other pinhole (figure G). Add wax paper, a caul and clamp to add pressure on the blister and flatten it as the glue dries. In a few hours, the blistered veneer will be perfectly flat."

-John in NH

I don't know if you've got an inconspicuous spot for experimenting. Tom suggested a slit or pinhole. Make the pinhole with a 30 ga needle, inject a little of Rockler's thin cyano (or equivalent) put a piece of teflon over the bubble and clamp. If done with care and no visible squeeze out, you might dodge the need for any refinishing. The Teflon is just a precaution in case there is some squeeze out. Ideally, you can limit the amount of glue so there is no squeeze out.

rhg

tom wrote:

Don't drill holes - they'll be visible afterwards. An enormous scalpel slit will be invisible afterwards, so long as you cut along the grain.

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