I think you are courting disaster if you try to Rube Goldberg this tool.
If you can't afford to get the real and correct part, then you obviously
can't afford to own and use the tool. You should just sell it and go
Frank Boettcher wrote:
On Wed, 16 Jul 2008 06:34:20 -0500, Frank Boettcher wrote:
To be honest, I don't know. *But*.. what I was planning to do was use two-
part epoxy to fill the rim in and to overflowing, then sand it to either
flat with a tyre on or crowned if it's soft enough to cope with the teeth.
TBH making a plywood wheel is looking easier, especially since I still
have the useable axle and bearings from the original wheel.
The crown is important. The blade tracks to the usable portion of
each wheel primarily by trying to climb the crown to the apex but
being just on the edge of being able to do so. Without the crown the
blade just keeps going in the direction it is heading, off the edge of
The blade running exactly on the center and top of the crown on both
wheels is more a matter of random chance than design. When
manufactured there is a tolerance zone actually measured with a gage
when the machine is "tracked" on the assembly line. If the blade is
within the gage limits on both wheels, that means that the machine
will properly track the largest blade the the machine is designed for.
It is not uncommon for the blade to run slightly off center on both
wheels on opposite sides when the blade is properly tracking.
My comments are on the manufacture of Delta domestically produced
units, I'm not familiar with others but think most are done in the
The Good news:
It would be a rather straight forward procedure to construct a wheel using a
plywood core, fiberglass side walls and tread along with the reuse of the
The Bad news:
It is a VERY time consuming task.
I know how to do it but wouldn't.
Out of curiosity, why do you need fiberglass side walls?
I know people make high speed dust collector fans out of plywood, I
would think a slow speed band saw wheel would hold up just fine,
probably a lot better than the plastic wheels he currently has?
I often thought of building one of those plywood band saws but since I
already have a good band saw, I probably won't. I'd like to have a
giant resaw band saw, dedicated to resawing, but...
Yep.. my thought, also..
I decided that if I ever did that much resawing, it would be fun to build a
horizontal BS like a metal cutting one... Sort of like a big-assed chop saw but
with a BS blade and wheels..
The priority is so far down the list that I've never even drawn one.. lol
Please remove splinters before emailing
Yes, something like that. Like Mac though, for me it's down the
priority list enough I'll never get to it. I'd have a better chance of
stumbling over a nice used one than building one I guess.
If they supplied just the bearings would you have any qualms making the
wheels out of plywood? I still think plain plywood would be simpler
than building high speed radial fans for dust collectors that many seem
to have built out of plywood. Even I have some reservations about that,
but I'd do it if I had to...
For me, NBD, but see below.
If you are going to use plywood as a core, then you want to totally
encapsulate it with epoxy and fiber glass.
The plywood is now totally sealed, and you are no longer dealing with
wood other than as a core material.
If you want to make an 18" wheel, laminate a couple of 19" dia pieces
of 12mm, 4 ply, CDX plywood together with some TiteBond II.
(You can use deck screws as clamps, just sand down the tips when
finished and leave them installed)
When cured, drill a centered thru hole with a hole saw that is 2-3
times the dia of the axle.
(My guess is that 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 would be about right.)
Close the bottom of the hole with masking tape, lay flat on table, and
pour in about 1/2" of micro-balloon thickened fairing putty and let
cure over night.
Next day, remove tape, mix more thickened putty, and fill both sides
proud using a putty knife or equal to apply.
When cured, sand putty smooth on both sides, then apply a layer of
17OZ, double bias glass on top side and let cure.
Next day, glass other side.
When both sides are cured, sand glass with some 60 grit to remove any
drips.and overlaps around outer circle edges.
Center drill a thru hole for the axle.
Notice that you have just drilled thru glass and putty, but the
plywood is still sealed.
Using a router with a 1/2" carbide straight bit and a radius jig, trim
wheel to 18" finish dia.
(Buy a new, low cost carbide blade, use it, then toss it because the
fiberglass will have destroyed it.)
Glass the tread with some 6 oz, glass tape, 2" max width.
Glass 2/3 of wheel at a time.
When cured, rotate wheel and finish.
When cured, sand overlasps smooth, then tape again until you have 3
layers of glass tape.
Trim off excess glass with a sander.
You are now ready to install axle and rubber for tire.
Balance as required.
As I said, straight forward construction, just a PITA to do it.
On Fri, 18 Jul 2008 02:44:45 +0000, Lew Hodgett wrote:
<Snip complete howto>
Yes, but... given that this bandsaw will be sat in the same place where I
store my wood, and isn't subject to the raw heat of Arizona or the bitter
cold of Alaska, why *shouldn't* I just take the much simpler route of
just making it direct from plywood and varnishing it?
I can that your route makes it virtually indestructible and it will last
forever, but if it's 1/4 of the work to make it from raw ply then it can
wear out four times before I break even...
Probably true, but being paranoid, I rather not be using the saw when one wore
I guess finding a junked saw the same as yours with one good wheel isn't an
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