I think you'd probably be better off with something other than wood. Not sure
of your situation, but a wooden food-prep area requires a fair amount of
maintenance in order to keep _you_ healthy. So maybe a faux wood laminate? Tom
Someday, it'll all be over....
I recently built counter tops for Mintlake Lodge. After much research, I
chose 12" porcelain tile with Laticrete epoxy grout. The counters are
wonderful, and even though I like wood as much as anybody, I just can't
imagine why you use it for kitchen countertops. Durability and maintenance
issues are HUGE drawbacks. Porcelain with epoxy grout never needs sealing
and you can put anything right off the stove or out of the oven anywhere on
your counter. Porcelain is nearly impossible to scratch, and in the event
you drop a pressure cooker from the top shelf and damage the surface,
chipped tiles can be removed and replaced for a 100% cosmetic and funtional
repair. Color choices for tile / grout combinations are nearly infinite,
and asthetics can be enhanced by adding borders and angles to your grout
lines. Also, you can't cut yourself (short of damaging a finger nail) on a
masonry wet saw.
I get my wood for free, but I will spend $4 or $5 a square foot to do
procelain counters again and again on future projects.
Nobody that does serious cooking ever wants tile countertops. They are
difficult to clean, you cannot use a tenderizer on them, slippery,
usually not level, and generally the grout will develop leaks and mold,
a pain in the rear.
Just an opinion, but one backed by the last six years of cooking in a
kitchen with tile.
Cheap teak shipped to your door
Larry Church wrote:
Agreed. When we added a new kitchen to our house, and
had to choose what to put on our custom cherry cabinets,
we looked at all the options, and it was essentially a tie
between granite and Corian. We went with Corian.
Dennis M. O'Connor firstname.lastname@example.org
There was some concern over sealing granite, and granite
is harder than Corian, so more things might break on it.
Granite seemed more heat resistant, but then, you can pour
boiling water on Corian to sterilize it, and for us that's good enough.
But ultimately, it came down to appearance. We found a color
of Corian that gave us the look we wanted, and nothing
comparable was available in granite (or engineered stone).
Dennis M. O'Connor email@example.com
I agree, but why have only one surface?
Here from the beginning of the counter, past the sink and through the corner and
~ 1.5 feet of that leg gets tile, then there's a 2'x 3' cutting board. The rest
of the wall will be a wood work bench to store the cast iron collection with a
'raw' top to set hot pans on. Then there's going to be an island with a heavy
wood top that's urethaned.
Four surfaces, one for each occasion.
If you gotta go with wood go with maple--it's reasonably hard and maple sap
is not only non-toxic but nutritious. There are coatings intended for
bartops that let you use just about any wood, however they scratch and if
they do somehow get a through crack they can leak which makes a stain
that's going to be a bear to get out--doesn't happen often but I noticed
the other day that it had happened at one of the tables at a local
restaurant that used that technique so it's not impossible.
Best bet though would be one of the plastics, either laminate or solid
surface--they're relatively low maintenance while not being hard on
dishes--stainless or tile or stone are worse on dishes. Some granite tile
around the stove would be good as a safe place for a hot pan to land.
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
For overall utility it is hard to beat oak. For butcher blocks,
sycamore is the preferred wood. As others have said, for normal kitchen
counters there are materials that are more functional than wood. If I
were to install new counters now I would probably turn to granite.
In my home I have hardwood "butcher block" counters made from madrone. We
love the natural dark reddish color and they have held up great under
abuse. I ordered these counters through an environmental home center in
Seattle. You may also want to check out the OS Hardwax Oil as a finish
for your counters.
Usual disclaimer: I have no affiliation with these companies, I am just a
How about the best of both worlds... tile edged in a hardwood. In another
post, Larry (from Mintlake Lodge) pointed out the advantages of using the
tiles and I agree. I've done my own kitchen island and a 7' counter using
6" tiles edged with stained oak and they look as good today as they did when
I installed them over 10 years ago.
There are certainly other man-made materials you can use and an all wood top
looks nice - for awhile. Without an epoxy coating, it will most likely be a
very high maintenance countertop that you'll soon be replacing. Think about
it - when's the last time you saw a wood countertop being advertised?
Thanks for all the replies so far.
It's gotta be wood as the worktops will complement a Belfast sink.
Anything else just wont do for the wife. It will be more decorative than
In the woods defense it wont be getting a lot of abuse as my wife just
doesn't do "cooking" in the biblical sense. It's qiuck and easy in our
Me personally.........I'd go for granite, but as SHE wears the trousers
it's gonna be wood....Maple I think, due to the afore mentioned anti-
Belfast sink? Whazzat?
I've seen countertops of every wood imaginable, from SYP to maple and walnut
and cherry. If you're not going to abuse it (do NOT bet on this), almost any
wood does just fine, as long as you plan on refinishing it every so
often--periods between refinishes depend on use and the finish.
Pick your color. Pick your wood, the harder the better, and go. Avoid rosewoods
because of allergens (and fiscal responsibility). Ebony is avoidable for
"Wars spring from unseen and generally insignificant causes, the first outbreak
being often but an explosion of anger." Thucydides
Think water trough.
I would be concerned with rotting of the support structure/ cabinet. Even in a
Seems this sink would be a major factor in choice of materials.
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