Belt Sander Belt Tape

My familiarity with this problem goes back many years. When I faced the same experience of snapping belts, I was told that improper storage was the culprit, ie storage in an un-heated, un-cooled building.

I was also told the manufacturers of the belts have assembly presses which cannot be duplicated at home.

The lesson to be learned here, IMHO, is to purchase small lots as needed. Is there anyway to find out the date of manufacture as per a carton of milk?

Joe G

Reply to
GROVER
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I would have thought it would have to be an adhesive that stays soft. Lots of bending going on. The superglue gets hard (I thought) and may only be good for ..repair use for a few hours, breaks the next time.

I should look at my box full of belts. They are quite old now. I moved and still haven't even found my sander...thinking I have one...maybe?...LOL

My belts have a long angular joint across the width of the belt.

The joint is a half lap joint. As long as the break is clean, it is simple to line it up perfectly, it's really automatic since it's a half lap joint. Tape, hot melt glue would not work. Super glue gel works great, and is simple since the glue dries in seconds, and is thin enough that the seam is not raised, and is just as flat as it was at the factory.

I just did this two weeks ago, and after several uses it's holding up fine. Can't say it will hold up forever or not, but I can say, for certain, it will hold up for two weeks and about an hour of sanding...

Saved me an emergency trip to Granger and it took almost zero effort to fix.

Tracking was not an issue, since the joints line up perfectly with little fuss. A bump at the seam is no problem since super glue is thin, even the gel type. Hot melt and tape I would think would fail to work at all.

Reply to
Josepi

Looks like he solved his own probelm with some superglue.

"Joe AutoDrill" wrote in message news:5WE%n.17779$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe12.iad... At the risk of repeating advice given by others... Due to my lack of reading ALL the posts... How about fiberglass reinforced tape?

Reply to
Josepi

Yep. I read that (didn't know it was him...) and figured it would last a few days but that the glue was too brittle to last longer.

Reply to
Joe AutoDrill

How about some carpet seam tape? The kind that you use to hold two edges together, heat up with an iron, and voila, they are stuck together. Do you know a carpet layer?

Reply to
Barb/Bob Alexander

It was Jack Stein who said he had had success that way, not OP.

I'll have to try it; didn't think there would be much chance w/ it, either so haven't done so. The info I got from Klingspor engineering is what they use is a thermo- or UV-curable adhesive. I've not found the communications, unfortunately; don't recall what I must've done w/ them but not in any of the logical places (or at seem what to be logical now; who knows what was thinking of then.. :( )

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Reply to
dpb

Barb/Bob Alexander wrote: ...

That I'm familiar with would be too thick and be a thump every rev...

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Reply to
dpb

ooops My bad. Not reading headers enough.

Yes, I figure you glue one you need and use it, then it falls apart when the glue dries out in a few days or weeks.

Joe AutoDrill wrote:

Reply to
Josepi

On Wed, 14 Jul 2010 21:09:11 -0700, "Edward Hennessey" wrote the following:

2 possibilities come to mind.

Some belts are extremely directional and will last forever in the correct direction or fall apart as you speak of in the other direction. If there is an arrow on them, be sure to use it.

Second, old belts can have old, brittle adhesive and nothing I've heard of will save 'em. Most tape will hit the shoe plate and curl right off.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

On Wed, 14 Jul 2010 23:45:15 -0700, "Lobby Dosser" wrote the following:

I never understood that. Why would anyone want to sand their palm?

Reply to
Larry Jaques

If the ends overlap, you can use elmer's glue and fix by ironing with a household iron. If they but up then you will need some kind of cloth tape.

We use to make our own in school shop by cutting from a roll at a diagonal so they would overlap by approx an inch. Then using a grinding stone in a DeWalt radial arm saw we ground off the grid on one end, put on the glue and ironed them from the back. Never had one to come unglued. The stock roll was donated by a local plywood maker.

Reply to
Gerald Ross

Yeah, I'd rather have mine greased.

Reply to
krw

Smooth out the calluses from the heavy lifting I do. P)

Reply to
Lobby Dosser

LH:

Thank you for the pointers.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Reply to
Edward Hennessey

dpb:

Good considerations to keep in mind. If you bump into the Klingspor correspondence, I'm sure we'll all be ears.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Reply to
Edward Hennessey

JG:

Good link. I've saved the information from the page. Thanks.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Reply to
Edward Hennessey

WS:

I appreciate the link and copied it.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Reply to
Edward Hennessey

JS:

Interesting. I have a friend that formulates cyanoacrylate glues and will ask him which concoction he suggests.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Reply to
Edward Hennessey

J: A citation earlier in the thread led to a company selling tape dedicated to the purpose; thickness is evidently a big issue as their offerings topped out at

6.5 microns. Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Reply to
Edward Hennessey

MK:

Not really. There's also the "bump" issue with the thickness of the glue and the idea that if it gets hot while circling around the platten it may whip apart again.

Thanks,

Edward Hennessey

Reply to
Edward Hennessey

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