bandsaw tire and blade slipping off drive pulley

Hi all!

I've had my Jet 12" bandsaw about 6 months now and have been happy with it. There's one thing though that I am unsure how to solve. On

3 occassions after tensioning, tracking and adjusting the blocks and thrust bearings, then running the machine, after turning it off I've noticed that the tire has started walking off the pulley. I've shut the machine down, opened the top and seen the tire overhanging the pulley by a good 1/2". Anybody have any idea why this might happen? Over tensioning? Bad tire?

-Fezig-

Reply to
Fezig
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Not sure of the root cause, but as the tires on my bandsaw got old, they lost their stretching strength. The centrifugal force of the spinning wheel would cause a visible gap between the tire and wheel on the portion that has no contact with the blade. A new set of polyurethane tires solved my problem.

DonkeyHody "In theory, theory and practice are the same, but in practice they are not."

Reply to
DonkeyHody

don't Jet have a number to call, isn't it under warranty? If its out of warranty then go by a shop that sells rubber and hose and tell them and get a good rubber adhesive

Reply to
racing John

Band saw tires are designed to have a durometer reading that insures that they can stay on the wheel at the design RPM. If the chemistry of the rubber is a little off, they can lift and shift. Some tires are glued to the wheel, but most are not, by design. I would suspect the tires are defective and should be replaced. Warranty?

Frank

Reply to
Frank Boettcher

Called Jet today. They agreed it was probably a bad tire and are shipping me another one.

-Fezig-

Reply to
Fezig

Reply to
Bill

I have the same problem with my Crapsman bandsaw. I've considered a little rubber cement to hold the bottom tire in place, although buying a new tire is probably a better idea. Actually, buying a new *bandsaw* is probably the best idea.

Let's see...Bandsaw or Windows? Windows or Bandsaw? Uh, what was that, honey? You want to help me measure the windows? Uh, OK, good idea.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Speaking of windows... I had my contractor neighbor replace my old aluminium windows with new vinyl ones, and in the process I asked him to remove the poorly-installed interior liners. He was supposed to replace those and add trim, too, but I have found out why my other neighbors only used him once. Like just about every independent contractor I've heard about, he doesn't answer his phone and he doesn't call back. I finally got fed up and decided that I could do it myself.

So, I bought myself and brand spanking-new Bosch 4410L compound sliding miter saw. Spendy, but in two nights I've built three liners. Who knows? I might just be able to get this job finished before Christmas! Also, I bet I save the cost of the saw two or three times over based on his hourly charge.

Reply to
bsa441

What is this "interior liner" you speak of?

Reply to
DerbyDad03

My neighbor calls it the liner and casing. I believe most people call the "liner" the jamb and sill, but in all the references I've looked up on the Intertubes, a jamb is for hung windows (i.e., sliding windows with sash weights). The casing is the trim pieces on the interior walls. I don't know the correct terminology, I'm just using the words he used.

So far, based on his hourly rate I've saved at least a third of the saw cost.

Reply to
bsa441

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