Band Saw wobble??

...

I don't know what "wobbling" is...what moves in what direction wrt to what?

That said, I suspect one of two causes (although may be something else depending on answer to above question I'll hazard a guess)--

1. Not enough tension for such a heavy operation (and quite possibly the saw is incapable of it--I don't recall the review comments regarding the Ridgid)
2. The arms/riser simply aren't stiff enough and flex...

It could be a bad blade. Try a new blade before you go tearing into the saw.

"Geo" wrote in news:1121348496.795488.124420 @z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com:

I have a larger, steel-framed Jet saw. The difference that a good, SHARP, purpose designed resaw blade will make in this operation is amazing.

I'm using a blade from Hastings Saw in Rohnert Park, CA. Thin kerf, 3/4 variable tpi, similar geometry to the Woodslicer from Highland Hardware. Buy several, because they dull, and you're back to struggling.

My only other comment is that this operation is really near the limits of your saw...

Patriarch

Define.

Upper portion gets closer to lower portion periodically? Lack of (sorry) Ridgidity. Too much stress which might be helped by a better blade.

Blade surging fore and aft? Tracking adjustment. May need to go back to coplaner to get all the push you need. Tension might help, too.

Blade flexing and slapping? More tension.

Or, Polack slap on forhead - might be the pulley(s) are loose.

Having the same saw, with the riser block, I'd guess he means #2..

I used to think it was my Imagination, but I've now verified (by asking folks to watch and tell me if I'm seeing mirages) that when I'm sawing wet bowl blanks and the saw slows down, the upper guides and roller get closer to the wood... when I let it build up speed, it goes back up... My guess is that if you were feeding at irregular speeds or something, it could start bouncing???

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Be my guess, too...I think he's "over-expecting" what that saw can reasonably be expected to do. As somebody else noted it's a really high quality blade specifically for resawing will help, but it's a stretch to resaw 8" stock w/ that saw.

I have the same saw, and I had what may be a similar problem. Perhaps some of these ideas will help...

Although the wheels on mine were co-planar right out of the box, they were horribly out of balance. This only appeared at certain RPM's during startup and shutdown, or if I bogged the saw (resawing 4" stock). I had to drill about 20 holes in the webbing of the bottom wheel to get it close to balanced. After that, I still had the vibration (I'm guessing it was an oscillation of about 2-3 Hz if you want to call that a wobble). The large pulley on the lower wheel is cast aluminum and mine was bored off-center by about 1/16".

I couldn't find a pulley locally of the proper size, so I replace the motor with a 3450 RPM 1 HP motor I had and adjusted both pulley sizes to increase the blade speed to approx. 3300 fpm. I think stock is about 2700. I used high quality pulleys and a link belt. It cuts like a completely different saw now.

I do 8 -11 stock on mine, but I'm going really, really slow to keep rpm up and not expecting a quality cut... sometimes, it's just too damn hot outside to use the chainsaw so I cut blanks with the BS...

I use good quality 5/8" 3 tpi blades and know that I'm beyond the real (as opposed to Rigid's specs) limits of the saw... bit it does what I need it to in a fairly safe manner... I work with pine and fir and still wouldn't try for a quality resaw on more than

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

You have described my saw problem to a tee. Sounds like there mught be an inherent problem with this model. Thanks for the information.

Don't over look the other folks suggestion, though... I check the tracking on my saw with it running and both doors open, and have never been able to see or feel an wobble or out of balance wheels..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Did you check to see if the pulley nuts were tight? just a thought...