Hi folks........(there's a Gloat in this too)....Needs some advice for
attaching a metal lumber rack to a poured concrete wall.
Found a pleasant surprise when I realized that a rack that was storing
my wifes decorations and various nick nacks was actually a steel lumber
rack. I have since removed it and will replace her storage in a bit
with a nice new enclosed cabinet. (she's happy that it will be
enclosed.....She's happy....I'm happy)
Anyway...(Gloat warning)..I'm getting a BUNCH of lumber from my
father-in-law to put on this rack after I get it installed. Oak,
walnut, poplar, and cedar. All most all of the boards are 7/8 thick,
10 feet in length and anywhere from 5 to 8 inches wide rough cut. It
also has been drying for probably 15 or more years. :-) I love my
dad-in-law. Really, I do.
The rack is angle steel frame with 9/16 inch holes for bolts down each
post. I have five posts. Then there are arms that fit into the posts
to hold the lumber......
What's the best way to install the bolts that I need to put into the
concrete? I realize I'll need to drill the holes, but is a straight
concrete screw the best bet or should I use some sort of "molly" in the
hole and then the screw......I realize that there's going to be some
serious weight on these and would prefer not to have them come crashing
I'm guessing that you're use of the word "molly" is some sort of plug that
the screw is fastened to. I'd go that route. Drill to size for a soft metal
plug, hammer it in and then screw to that with the appropriate sized screws.
You could use Tapcon (maybe it's Topcon) screws too...I used them with no
problem, although for something a bit smaller. All you have to do is make
sure you use the appropriate size drill bit for the size screw you would
You can also get devices that work similar to drywall expansion adapters.
Drill the hole in concrete - insert the piece and simply screw it in to
tighten it in the wall. The ones I used in this case were threaded on the
outside so I could put a washer and nut on.
If it matters, 'molly' is short for 'molly bolt', and describes the gizmo
that is _attached_ to /part of a bolt assembly -- designed to be used on
-hollow- walls, where the assembly is placed into the hole and then
'screwed down', causing the molly assembly to flare and bind against the
back side of the wall. Once the molly assembly has been bound in place,
one can remove the bolt, place it through whatever one is mounting, and
re-apply it into the hole. This is *notably* different from the other
commonly-used form of an anchor for attaching things to hollow walls -- the
device known as a 'toggle bolt'. Which is a bolt with the spring-loaded
'wings' on the end of the bolt. compress the wings, as you poke it into
the hole (far enough that the wings pass entirely _through_ the hole, and
'spring out' into the open position. Then tighten it down to hold in place.
However, if/when you try to remove such things, as you back the bolt out,
eventually that 'wing' piece comes off the end of the bolt, and falls down
inside the wall. you have to use a new one, when putting things 'back'.
The gizmos for holding a screw/bolt into a hole drilled in a _solid_ wall
are called 'lead anchors'. Before the plastic ones came along, they were
actually made of lead. The idea behind them being that under pressure of
the screw being screwed in, the lead deforms to exactly match any
irregularities in the hole, and thus 'locks' itself into place.
Note: for using lead anchors, a 'rough' hole is better than one with very
smooth walls. chuck up a bit in a hammer-drill, and go to work. <grin>
I've used anchors like this
http://www.confast.com/products/thunderstud-anchor.asp before with
good results. In fact, I used them to install a 16ft long, 8ft high
lumber rack on my poured concrete walls in the basement. I like
Tapcons but I wouldn't use them where serious weight is involved. Just
We used to use 'Red Heads' which were 1/2 inch bolts. These were
intended for foundation bolts where we missed them when pourint the
walls or in slabs when something was 'moved'. they were generally used
on flat surfaces and not on walls, but I think that they would work
fine there as well. There are now concrete screws that work well. A
cordless hammer drill, and proper bit, and the screws in whatever
lengths you need. Try your local masonry supply, or even the big
If you go this route, you can also get self-tapping screws, but they
are a real PITA. Best avoided, IMO. Better to use a good masonry bit
and the proper bolt- though I still think the redheads are the best
fix for a lumber rack.
These would be suggestion as well- These suckers have some holding
power, but I'd worry about something like a plastic plug- it's my
understanding that those are just for relatively lightweight items
being mounted into plaster. (There are better products for drywall if
you can't find a stud- it's just that old plaster chips badly without
a pilot hole.) BTW, you suck- too.
Mike.....It hangs on the wall.
This is a link to what it looks like......
And in looking over the info on the page they list exactly what they
recommend using for attaching to poured concrete walls....
Gotta love when that happens.
I appreciate all the info though.
On 2 Aug 2005 10:50:42 -0700, the opaque "bremen68"
I have the John Sterling setup and they looked identical to the
Lee Valley brackets I saw listed there a while back. My longer
brackets (20 or 22", I think) have a diagonal stiffeners, too.
Great stuff, and about $100 for a whole wall full of it supporting
a ton of wood. http://www.johnsterling.com/FMshelfbrackets1.htm
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Thanks for all the info........Went with Thunderstud type anchors to
put the rack up last night........15 of the 1/2" X 6" critters went
right in....and now.......that rack ain't goin nowhere... :-)
Wood's on the way today........Cedar in the attic......oak, poplar, and
walnut on the rack......It's Christmas in August for me.
(I know quit gloating.....)
Thanks again folks!
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