I recently started a project and want to ensure I use the right finishing
technique. I saw the "Arts and Crafts" finish listed in a recent Popular
Woodworking and it said the complete directions were in the June 2002 issue.
I have all the materials but want to make sure I apply it correctly and
finish it correctly between coats. Can anyone give me some help here? I
have already applied the waterbased anilene dye but it raised the grain
slightly and want to make sure before I apply the warm brown glaze that I
properly finish the wood (fine sand, steel wool ?)
Thanks for your help.
Really enjoy the posts they are full of great ideas.
You should have applied a wash of plain distilled water to the wood before
the dye. This will raise the grain and you sand down nibs etc with 220
sandpaper. You then apply the stain and sand only lightly with
sandpaper...just lightly to remove nibs. You then seal the stain with 1 lb
cut of dewaxed shellac. Now you can apply your glaze. If you don't seal
the stain with the shellac you risk bleeding the stain up into subsequent
Somewhat inexperienced with waterbased dyes. Based on your input I can
complete this. I don't think I am that much trouble as it only raised some
nibs and not the whole grain structure.
Larry's post gives the normal sequence of finishing. However, since you have
already applied the WB stain, how much is the grain raised? I have in the past
just ignored it and continued on, applying a film finish in the end which tends
to level out the surface, By sanding the second last coat of top coat you remove
any remaining fibers resulting from the grain raising. Suggest that whither or
not you try this or you sand it back and start over again you try it first on a
few pieces of scrap prepared in exactly the same way as the piece you are
making. Cheers, JG
No one else mentioned this, so...
If it's an A&C project, there's a good chance you're using oak. The iron
in steel wool can react with the tannin in oak and cause black stains.
Though you're probably safe using it after a base sealer coat has been
applied, I avoid it when dealing with oak; there are plenty of safer
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