Well there is that.. LOL...
Yeeeeears ago I never opened a glue bottle with out having a wet paper towel
handy. These days I always use an acid brush to spread the glue. IMHO
using the brush helps you learn quickly exactly how much glue is enough.
All you need is to totally coat the surface evenly and thin is fine as it
gets squeezed out pretty thin when you clamp the joint. Put too big of a
bead of glue down and the brush will help wipe off the excess. Put too
little and the brush will not cover the surface with glue. I very seldom
have much more than a trace of glue, if that, when clamping. Seriously
though if the entire surface has glue on it and you get no squeeze out, you
have used the correct amount.
On Thu, 21 Jan 2010 17:52:57 -0800 (PST), the infamous GarageWoodworks
Put a coat of finish on your project before you start processing it.
Small scratches will sand out and the whole thing will shed glue like
a champ, ya slob. ;)
We either make ourselves happy or miserable.
The amount of work is the same.
-Carlos Castaneda, mystic and author (1925-1998)
And the answer to your problem is
Paste wax consistency - dries WHITE so you can see it.
Apply with a que tip around joints and do your glue up.
When the glue has dried - pop off the squeeze out - with
your fingernail. Glue won't stick to this stuff. Then
with another que tip and some alcohol, get rid of the
Michael Fortune did a lot of spindle chairs and was
spending more time removing squeezed out glue
than making the chairs. Found WAXALIT and solved
his squeeze out problem.
Availablt from Lee Valley. Small can goes a LONG ways.
On Thu, 21 Jan 2010 17:52:57 -0800 (PST), GarageWoodworks
Every woodworker goes thru this and there are numerous solutions. As
my skill increased, I can now judge just how much glue to apply with
very little squeeze-out. I see all these videos and shows with glue
dripping all over the place during assembly and clamping, making a
mess. Painters or masking tape to protect nearby area helps too.
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