Angle grinder for cutting wood

I have one of these on the shelf in the garage, but the drill gave up (the day I just bought several new blades for it, of course). It worked well for 10+ years, before dedicated circular saws were available at affordable prices. B&D had a load of drill attachments of that form. My father also had the circular saw one, but also the jigsaw and the hedgecutter attachments (and probably some I've forgotten).

However, this brings up an important point... An angle grinder spins much faster than the safe operating speed for a circular saw blade, so don't even think about going there.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel
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My father had the B&D circular saw attachment and the finishing sander attachment. I inherited them and used them for a few years.

When I finally got around to buying a Bosch circular saw, I wondered why on earth I had struggled on with the clunky B&D attachment.

Reply to
Bruce

Put it across a couple of bricks and stamp/jump on it.

Reply to
Stuart

Yup, had one of those

It was usefull for cutting sheet material or ripping down the odd floorboard :-)

Reply to
Stuart

Yes, I can imagine ripping a floorboard with that thing :-)

Reply to
stuart noble

I have an even cheaper PPro one I bought in a clearance and it does roots really well. It says maximum cut 100mm but it cuts anything the blade fits, I have some

10" green wood blades and it works fine. For demolition I have some tungsten tipped blades and just cut through the wood and metal. The whole lot was ~£20.
Reply to
dennis

With the right blade the sawzall will cut just about anything, just about anywhere. And unlike the cheap clones, it will do it decade after decade.

Reply to
clare

Valid, but only relevant if you are making money with it, or use it a LOT. For occasional users like me, a cheap knockoff like my B&D corded that I bought almost new at a garage sale for 20? bucks, is probably more than sufficient. It probably wouldn't last a month on an active jobsite, but at a dozen or so cuts a year, it will outlast me.

Don't get me wrong- Milwaukee tools (at least the pro-grade they used to sell at the supply houses- never looked at the big-box versions) are great, but for those of us with limited demands and a limited budget, they are overkill. Like buying Snap-on wrenches to change the lawnmower sparkplug once a year.

Reply to
aemeijers

First, the basic rule is the inverse relationship between tooth size and material hardness: The harder the material, the smaller the teeth (generally). For cutting granite, you use diamonds; for cutting soft wood you use something like 24/tpi.

Second, a circular saw with a demolition blade won't even hiccup with a nail.

Third, if the wood is too flimsy, stack up several pieces and cut the lot.

Me? I'd burn the stuff in situ and be done with it.

Reply to
HeyBub

Somewhere I think I also still have the Vertical Drill Stand and the Horizontal Drill Stand (aka bench-grinder conversion tool)!

As Andrew alluded to, because of the prohibitive cost back then. I can remember my parents buying their first (and only - Mum still has it!) B&D drill in the early 70s. It was a 2-speed hammer job, and IIRC it cost 30-40 GBP, which would be worth probably ten times that in todays money. They certainly weren't a common part of people's household stuff as they are today. Presumably other portable power tools must have been similarly priced, accounting for the plethora of attachments you used to buy for them. God it was a PITA always swapping them over though!

David

Reply to
Lobster

What's the travel like on the blades of those saws? I certainly have a need for a rough'n ready powered saw for that sort of use, but had always thought they looked a bit too small, and Alligator-types were a bit OTT/out of my price range. But taking out a 12" tree sounds reasonably impressive...

David

Reply to
Lobster

Lobster formulated on Sunday :

Travel is about 2" and the blade was 9" long, so I had to cut from three sides to get all the way through.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

My Millwaukee Sawzall cost me $15.00. Got it for nothing and bought the part that had worn out and fixed it. With the cheap ones, when they quit they are DONE because generally parts are unavailable.

Reply to
clare

There are a few variations:

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Unsure which is cheaper, but more search strings :-)

Standard recip saws are cheaper for the machine, and *much* cheaper for the blades

Reply to
John Rumm

I recall my mother buying a B&D suitcase in the early 80's, that came with a 2 speed hammer drill and a bunch of accessories. Cost was £84 IIRC from Argos (or possibly the catalogue shop that preceded it. These included the circular saw that got a fair bit of use (but with hindsight was pretty poor!), an orbital sander (not too bad), and a jigsaw (had the ergonomics of a pissed off octopus!) The drill itself is still going... although it gets little use these days.

Reply to
John Rumm

a Scorpion saw in the US, either. [and searches of B& D's US site don't show it]

Jim

Reply to
Jim Elbrecht

Wow- portable power tools for home use seemingly took a long winding road in UK. (Maybe because of the different power?) All those tools you described were available at realistic prices in the states by late 60s early 70s- as stand-alone tools, not a 'Transformer' kit. Most homes that had even a rudimentary workbench had a 3/8" drill, a small saber saw, and a cheap circular saw. Sanders and such were usually only purchased if the Mrs. was into furniture refinishing or something. This was stuff for repairs and backyard construction of kid-stuff, not for fine cabinetry.

Of course, my experience may be atypical- I grew up in a construction company, and most of the kids I hung out with had fathers known to have swung a hammer or two in their day.

Reply to
aemeijers

I tend to put a chain round roots - leaving a bit of the stump attached - and then jacking the stump out of the ground using fence posts for leverage. Of course, I'm talking garden sized things rather than large native trees...

S
Reply to
spamlet

It happens that aemeijers formulated :

The stand-alone power tools started to become affordable for DIY from around the mid 80's in the UK. From around 2000 the prices have really fallen, due to all of the cheap imported stuff.

My father's only power tool was a B&D drill from the 1960's, which I know cost a small fortune when he bought it. It was beautifully made and was still in pristine condition when I disposed of it a few years ago - its relatively small chuck made it not very practical for modern usage.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

On 15 May,

Not with an angle grinder!

I have one of the few wood cutters for an angle grinder - the Arbortech disk. It's also just about the scariest power tool I use (I refuse to use a Lancelot angle grinder disk) I've never seen a saw blade for an angle grinder and wouldn't trust it at that speed anyway.

This is not a good idea.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

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