For a while, I had a zero-insert that I cut a short slot into in-line with the blade and the same thickness of the blade. I took a thin piece of cherry and glued it into the slot. This made for a very nice splitter, until I snapped off the cherry one day by sliding a board across it.
I would be interested in hearing of any improvements to this technique.
Harvey
Throw that surfboard on the planer and take off 1/8". Now put on a steel bottom with steel fin (welded) comin' up. Screw and glue, done.
-- Know how to listen, and you will profit even from those who talk badly. -- Plutarch
I guess the improvement would be to have a few spares sitting, ready to go in.
When I made my ZCI's, I contemplated using 2 trim screws to hold in the splitter, instead of glue, so I could take it out when running dados, etc. But then I figured I'd I have to take the ZCI out of the table to take the splitter out. I may as well just have another ZCI made, sans splitter, and just swap them.
OK, I'll let you back out of this relatively gracefully.
That looks interesting. This is steel? It looks like plastic. Never thought of making the splitter part be removable. Thanks! Harvey
hmm... interesting! Harvey
Yep, this would be a simple way around making the splitter removable, wouldn't it? Just make 2. Thanks. Harvey
Lee Valley Tools sells that splitter in two incarnations should you be interested in a purchase.
Although you do not use the fence on the opposite side often let me restate, If your fence is skewed away from the blade and you are ripping a 1x6 into say 2 or more usable pieces the waste side will be pulled into the blade on the back opposite side of the blade. This will both add tooth marks to the wast eside of the board and will prevent the whole board from tracking properly against the fence.
Translucent plastic incasing steel. I have been using this style for about
4 years and it holds up well.
Or 5 or 6 or 7. :-) One for each blade or dado set you use. Once you are set up to make one, the other take 1/10 of the time.
Oh, I get your point now. Thanks for clarifying. I think you may be envisioning more skew than I am using. I don't seem to experience this problem, but will look for them specifically next time I rip.
Harvey
harvey
The teeth a on a carbide sawblade are slightly wider than the steel body of the blade. The fence would have to be skewed so far so that a workpiece would contact the blade body before the trailing (rising) teeth for it to keep from tracking against the teeth properly. You probably have a point about the tooth marks (or is it teeth marks) though. (BTW I am in "dead parallel" camp because I sometimes use the fence to the left of the blade.
--------------------------------- This one is a winner.
Lew
Don't do me any favors, moron
------------------------------ The above and $5.00 will get you a cup of coffee in a cheap restaurant.
Lew
This from the geometrically challenged. Just makes you look worse.
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