I tried adding a removable table extension to my Craftsman Contractor Saw
(OUTFEED) with some success.
But I would like a removable extension.
Has anyone seen such an extension - home brew or store-bought? Better yet -
any links to pictures or even better pictures & Plans?
The main problem to overcome with what you're trying to do is that the
Craftsman saw uses a back rail as well as a front rail for securing the
fence. Makes it difficult to attach something to the back of the saw.
If I were to do it, I would find a channel with a U shaped cross section.
Pull off your rear rail, install the U channel, then re-install your rear
rail inside the channel. Obviously, the channel must be wide enough to
accomodate both the rear rail and the catch from the fence without hitting
anything. Now you can secure (temporarily or permanently) an outfeed table
to the outside of the channel.
Clear as mud?
I made an extension on mine. It isn't removable, but half of it is on
hinges that I can drop down to save space when not needed. I also have back
rails for my fence. Let me know if you like mine and I can take a few more
pictures of it.
" hinges that I can drop down to save space when "
Very neat looking - good job. However, my saw employs a rear rail for the
fence that precludes butting an extension "up against" the rear of the
Having said that, I would appreciate the opportunity to see a photo or two
better showing the attachment point, etc. and suspect others would benefit
"give you good ideas"
Yep, you were right. Square tube is rather easy to cut, drill & weld and
using the sides of the saw to fix brackets holding the adjusting rods for
the extension works & looks simple enough.
My Sears Fence may need to bite the dust (sell or scrap metal) and let one
of those fancy front locking fences replace it.
The gap the RipMate (http://internetwoodworking.com/w5/ripmate/ripmate.html )
leaves is not aesthetically pleasing to me. I would love to have an
extension that appears to have been made for the saw with the miter slots
aligned and the joint flush (albeit slightly beveled to avoid "catching").
Not necessarily. If you find the fence to be accurate and reliable, then
keep it. The outfeed table does not need to butt directly to your saw. A
gap of a couple of inches is not going to cause any issues for 99.99999% of
your work. If you think about it, it would require a very, very thin slice
of wood to be droopy enough to sag over that short of an expanse.
It would be easy enough to fab a manner of connecting the outfeed to the
bottom of your table top such that it does not interfere with your fence.
How do you like that. I would have thought that 1/4" would have had enough
rigidity to span that gap ok. But then 7-8" is also more than I was
envisioning. On my Craftsman Model 100 and an Align-A-Rip fence system I
can get my outfeed closer than that, so I wasn't thinking in terms of bigger
So - how about a filler strip that is only a foot or a foot and a half long
which is moveable along the back edge of the saw, that fits between the
outfeed edge and the back of the table. Perhaps one that sits in a rabbet
on the outfeed and is contoured to sit on the back rail for the fence
system. Slide it along to fit against the fence so that you have
uninterrupted support behind the blade. Remember, anything is possible with
cutting torches. Just paint it to match afterwards.
That is exactly what I did although mine is permanently mounted. I have
of saw with the webbed extensions. I simply bolted two lengths of wood
to holes drilled in the webbing. These then stick out about a foot
beyond the rear of the saw. I notched these supports for clearance of
the rear rail and to fit up into the webbing. A small table is then
mounted to these supports with a clearance slot for the miter gauge. As
noted by the previous poster there is a gap between the rear of the saw
and the added table but this has never caused a problem for me. I also
used two separate tables - one mounted on each extension. This leaves a
gap between them so the blade guard/spliiter can be mounted or
unmounted. While this has not been an issue for me, it would mean that
a narrow strip being ripped might not be supported unless a temporary
piece is used to bridge the two tables.
I have found that just this one extra foot behind the blade makes a big
difference. If you need longer suport you would probably need more
robust supports, such as angle iron, then I used.
Then there is this. I have this and it works great. It folds down directly
under the first set of rollers closest to the table. If yours is a cabinet
saw it bolts up to the cabinet. There are contractor saw varieties
HTC makes these.
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