I have a 1 HP Craftsman and a Craftsman bench-top metal router table - of sorts.
Needing some kind of a router table to build a dream router table and cabinet below,
a thought struck me. I thought I would try to hang my Bosch 1617 EVS under the crappy
metal router table. The sub-base of the Bosch is almost the same diameter as the
Crapsman and fits inside the raised molded ring on the bottom for the base of the
Bosch. All I need to do, *I think*, is drill and tap 4 new holes since the Crapsman
and Bosch do not shake hands there. Those hole locations are now marked with a
Sharpie in tiny circles but they are not drilled. I just have to make sure the 4
screws are just shy of the ribbed top of the table so they will not obstruct. I will
get it done in the next few days. Some of you may have such a Craftsman router table
and may have, or may wish to do the same thing. So far, I see no problems.
I had not thought of smoothing the holes on top. I will tend to that as soon as I
drill and tap them. Some of the holes make poke through into the bottom of the rib
trough and would not need dressing. Any which come through a rib, or part of a rib,
on top will get the full attention. Thanks for the advise.
Countersink the holes, then use a file to flatten any remaining
ridges. If necesssary you can then polish any roughness as required.
I did this with my el cheapo Vermont American phenolic plastic router
table and a Milwaukee router.
I took the legs off the VA router table then clamped it down and
drilled the holes on the drill press. One of the holes did indeed go
through a rib, but I had it stable enough that it was no problem.
Worked well enough until I got around to making a more suitable router
Please remove the spamtrap to email me.
"I always wanted to be somebody. I should have been more specific..."
Mike, the holes I drilled today in the present router table are only to *hold* the
screws. That aluminum is ribbed but it is very thin in the troughs. During assembly,
the screws first go through the base of my Bosch router and then into the holes I just
drilled - after I tap them. For that reason, the screws should have a shoulder on them
to press against the router base to pull it tight against the bottom of the metal
table. I do not want to countersink the holes in the router base because that would
shorten the length the screws would need to pull the router base tight to the crappy
router table. Obviously, there is no reason I can think of to countersink the holes
from the top of the router table. Just smooth the edges.
I have one of their "better" benchtop units, still all metal except the
fence, and if I remember correctly, you can get from Sears a universal
adapter ring to mate routers other than Crapsman to it.
The law of intelligent tinkering: save all the parts.
Thanks Norman. I will go to Sears and see what they have. I would probably have to
order it. I am not sure I need a universal adapter ring, but I may if my method does
not work satisfactorily. I drilled the four holes today. One came up through a rib
smack dab in the middle and the other 3 come up in the troughs between the ribs but
grooved a rib each time. Now I need to learn the size screws I need, diameter, TPI,
metric or English, etc. I will go to Ace Hardware for those. Where I live, Ace is
pretty good about such things. That is where I found the right size rubber grommets
to go under the 1/2" router shanks to raise them enough to avoid bit release
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