I find that extremely hard to believe. I have seen most all woodworking
shows use a plunge router for this purpose but they seldom continue to do
so. I would think that lifting a tool that is twice as heavy would be
slower. I really don't see any advantage that would make the router faster.
Can you explain where the time savings comes in?
No problem with router weight. I was able to stand over the work and lift
the router with two hands. Not heavy at all. I had the 8' long plywood
sides laid out on the work bench and was able to rout the holes down one
edge, flip the sheet end to end and go down the back side. Using the self
centering drill bit was a mess. It would clog up every couple of holes, and
some the holes it cut were not perpendicular to the side of the sheet.
Using the router corrected all problems. Maybe not the way I would do the
job if I were drilling ten or twelve pin holes, but it worked very well with
no fatigue for many hundreds of them.
I'll take your word for it. My situation however is that my mating
panels are not often positioned the same, meaning that the location of
an outer panel where it meets the bottom of the cabinet is not the same
as where an inner panel bottom is situated. I typically register from
the bottom of the cabinet after assembly. My inner panels are dadoed
into the cabinet bottom 1/4", so there is an offset to keep in mind. I
like to make it fool proof so drilling after assembly takes all math out
of the process. ;~)
And there is the case where there are times that there is no tool and a jig
is necessary. The face frames that Swingman and I build have dado's and
groves to accept the cabinet panels. Every face frame has incomplete dados
where they intersect. I came up with a jig for completing those dados
quickly and accurately.
I have yet to find one of those shelf-pin bits with the spring mechanism
and centering bushing that didn't clog and have to be fiddled with to
unclog every few holes. I spend more time unclogging the bit than
drilling holes, so a router would save time in that instance.
However, as you stated, using a router to drill a 1/4" hole is kind of
like using a 16' extension ladder to reach the top of the fridge. Since
I usually drill my shelf pin holes after assembly, the router would be
the worst option. If I were drilling 1000 pin holes and had all the
case sides lined up on benches with jigs clamped up, ready to go in a
production scenario, then the router would be the way to go.
The time savings is all these situations always comes into play *after*
any jigs are already set up and clamped up and ready for boring. The
beauty of the Rockler/Woodcraft/Bench Dog shelf pin jigs is there is
next to no set up required out of the box.
I can grab my Woodcraft pin jig from the toolbox drawer and take it to a
bookcase without a tape measure or clamp or pencil and start drilling
perfectly spaced holes. Jig in one hand, drill in the other and ready
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
There is that but I always used a fast speed so that the clogging was
not an issue of consideration for me. Now with a smaller 5mm bit that
might become more of an issue. I know that the smaller Vix bits that I
use do clog more the smaller I go.
Perhaps the advantage is being able to leave the router running and not
waiting for the bit to spin compared to using a corded drill with out a
brake. The Rockler bit was a brad point so there was little issue with
tear out and that bit worked for countless years, well 20+ with out
having to replace or resharpen the bit. When drilling hundreds of holes
my biggest issue is a short jig that has to be repositioned often, the
weight of the machine that I am having to reposition with every hole and
the spring resistance that I have to over come. The Kreg jig with its
hardened steel guides and standard brad point bit was a big improvement
over the spring loaded bit. The problem with the Kreg was 4~5 holes at
a time before repositioning. I simply can't imagine myself picking up a
router, repositioning, and pushing against plunge springs hundreds of
times. And that only works if there are no obstacles.
Basically the same with the True position drill guide. You can use each
12 hole plate alone or paired with the guide. With the guide you slip
the plates on the guide until they stop and tighten 2 thumb screws on
each side and you are ready to go for 24 holes.
Jeez I remember doing them with a drill press way back when. LOL
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