Woodscrew "stripped threads"

Bit of a self-inflicted stupidity one here...

I'm in the throes of refurbishing and upgrading an outbuilding, and it had a new wooden door and frame put on it last year. Unfortunately, I managed to shut the door with a bit spirit level in the hinge side of the frame... As a result, the top of the door caught on the opposite side of the frame. I thought I'd bent the top hinge, but removing the screws, checking it out, and putting it back solved the problem.

Except... it's doing it again. And several of the screws seem to have "stripped" their threads into the wood of the frame. The recesses in the hinge aren't big enough to go up on screw size.

Thoughts?

Also - got a bit of a problem with water build-up on this same door between the bottom of the door and the sill. Could it be that the gap is too small, so the rain is being held in? Would taking a snidge off the bottom of the door solve it?

Reply to
Adrian
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Glue in some dowel in the oversized holes when it has set drill out pilot h oles and screw back the hinge. Alternatively re-position the hinge so the screws are going into fresh wood. If the hinges are in recesses then these will have to be redone and the old recesses filled, but being an out buildi ng you may not be that fussy. Try a rain deflector on the bottom edge of th e door a see if that helps.

Richard

Reply to
Tricky Dicky

In principle you can go up on width or length. If all else fails, grinding a head down to a smaller size or drilling the hinge recess can be used. Eas ier though is probably hammering some wood into the screwholes first, havin g applied PVA. Then refix another day.

I find that hard to believe

sounds very unlikely.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

THE solution to stripped wood threads - and I have used it time and time again in kitchen carcases - is to fill the old hole with car body filler, redrill (or poke a matchstick in when half set) and screw up again.

Screwing up not to tight before completely set works well, then tighten up hard when set.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

As soon as the door is opened, the water runs out.

Reply to
Adrian

I did wonder about that - but will it not just pull out?

It's a studio for SWMBO...

Reply to
Adrian

Insert a wooden dowel and coat with Grab adhesive, let it set then redrill. I asume that the door is fitted with a bottom Drip bar to deflect any water? If not, fit one. If the wooden door opens outwards, I would fit a small canopy above the door (if poss), this will prevent most rain from even reaching the door. That's what I did to our front door, now whenever it rains, it's rare to see any raindrops at all on the door. Little door canopy was about £80, but worth it.

Reply to
Bod

It's not, but then nor are any of the windows or doors on the house - and this is the only one that's affected.

It's side-on to the prevailing weather, unfortunately.

Reply to
Adrian

The trouble I find with dowels (either ready made or cut from ramin) is that they are fine grained, and wood screws don't really like going along the grain. I used to get better results by putting in a squirt of glue, hammering in a few sharpened matchsticks, and waiting for it to dry before trimming neatly to length with a sharp chisel. Perhaps slightly quicker than TMH's wood filler, although I have used that successfully for slightly larger repairs.

Reply to
newshound

You can get a "plug cutter" that will cut a cross-grained plug...

This set here does tapered and parallel, but the max length is 25 mm.

This one does 70 mm, but costs a lot more...

There's even tapered drill and matching plug cutters soemwhere, for the exact purpose of repairing holes. Japanes, I think, and eye-wateringly expensive.

All work similarly: drill out the worn screw hole, tap in tapered plug cut from similar wood with glue, plane even, start afresh.

Thomas Prufer

Reply to
Thomas Prufer

And all are more complicated than filling the worn hole with car body filler an starting the screw hole again

Pleased don't post any more solutions from before 0 BC(BF)*

*Before Car (Body Filler)
Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Oh, ok.

Reply to
Bod

Added to that, why not fit a drip bar for the small cost, It won't do any harm. The rainwater might be travelling under the door if the door hasn't got a drip groove underneath the bottom.

Reply to
Bod

A short length of rawlplug. Ideally one of the old fibre ones (what???!

- you've not got some in a tin somewhere?), next best parallel plastic, at a pinch the tip of one of these new-fangled tapered ones.

Reply to
Kevin

+1

The dowel trick is easy and gives a result as good as the original wood IME.

Reply to
Tim Watts

The car body filler trick is easy and gives a result *better* than the original wood

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

is the right answer, well the first thing to try anyway, especially as it all sounds a bit wet out there. Standard red plug if you can hammer it in, or a yellow one if not. Whatever tightens the screws really

Reply to
stuart noble

If it needs a bit of padding out, an appropriate smear of polyurethane glue works well. Let it set before putting screw in!

Have used this technique on lightweight concrete block, wood, kitchen cabinet melamine coated chipboard, ...

Reply to
polygonum

Hmm I think ES servers seem to have lost a whole lot of the messages from yesterday, as all the threads start with re: Brian

Reply to
Brian-Gaff

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