Wisdom required on partition walls

I would use 75x50 sawn (not planed) timber for the framing and noggins - with the 75 dimension defining the thickness of the walls. You can then hide most of the pipework *inside* the walls. Use Hep2o for all hidden pipework, changing to copper for anything which is exposed. You can then feed the Hep2o through holes drilled in the noggins, floor plates or ceiling plates, as appropriate.

I would use a total of 5 uprights, with 3 of them being at the intersection of the two sections - 2 back to back and the other one at right angles (in plan view). You will then have a face on each wall in the corner for nailing on your plasterboard. I would use 2 noggins in each section (plus floor and ceiling plates, of course), approx 1/3 and 2/3 of the way up the walls - but make sure that there's something solid to screw the sink hangers to.

I`ve wondered about this myself - possibly one for the FAQ ?

I'd be inclined to use the S4S (surfaced four sides) studding that Wickes sell, though be sure to choose your pieces carefully (look along the length to gauge the straightness). It's ex 3x2 so about 2 1/2 x 1 1/2 finished. Use the same stuff for the noggins. Put the studs at 400mm c/s to suit the plasterboard and the noggins at mid height. If you're going to be fixing anything to the wall then put in extra noggins or studs in the appropriate place.

For such a small distance 1.5 x 2.5 will be plenty big enough. You dont need any intermediate uprights, but adding one in the 50cm wide wall will make everything more solid.

Wood finish: anything, makes no difference. Noggins: anything, I'd just use a bit more 1.5x2.5

(You can even do a job like this with scrap wood and oddments)

Note that anything weighty that goes on the wall will need a noggin in the wall to support it, and you cant add them later, so plan. Dont forget to run a wire if you want a wall light.

Final note: always use 12mm PB. Its just =A31 more than 9.5 and much stronger and less prone to getting holed later.

NT

I was always told that you can do 400 for 9mm but get away with 600mm with 12.5mm....

Still not much of an issue since 12.5mm is feeble enough as it is.

Yeah - so was I. Then a friend met a BCO with other opinions and although a question here gave varied replies, there was no definitive source. Since then me and him have played safe and used more wood.

Given that plasterboard is cheap and wood pricey, hardly seems worth using 9mm in the circumstances then.

To add to what others have already said - Building Control would tell you that you need to include sound insulation inside the partition (eg slabs of Rockwool)

David

What the hell for? He's making an alcove in the bedroom, not a separate room!

Erm, yes, fair enough! Don't think even *my* BCO would push for that. On second thoughts...

David