Wiring wireless Room thermostat

I see from your later posts that you seem to have sorted it.

Yes, your drawing does make sense. You have a fairly conventional Y-Plan system - fully pumped with a 3-port mid-position valve to direct the boiler output to either the HW or CH circuit, or both at the same time depending on demand. If you study the Y-Plan wiring diagram at

formatting link
you'll see that it's essentially the same as yours (albeit using different pins in the wiring centre for some of the functions).

The wiring has been done in a way which is all too common - using whatever cable is readily to hand rather than the proper stuff - so you've got the neutral wire of a T&E cable used for live, and the unshielded earth wire used for neutral! But hopefully you've now corrected that.

As I was saying in an earlier post, the neutral connection to the old stat was purely to act as a return for the accelerator heater (which gets slightly warm when the heating is on, and reduces the stat's hysteresis). Digital stats need no such fudge, and the neutral wire must *not* be connected to any of the switching contacts - otherwise in some condition or other it will get connected to live and cause a dead short.

As others have said, the base unit of the new stat needs an unswitched L & N feed from the left-hand end of your wiring centre, purely to power it - and your existing black and red wires (or their replacements if you've rewired that bit) must be connected to Common and Call for heat respectively.

Reply to
Roger Mills
Loading thread data ...

Looking at the sketch, my understanding of the original leads is

unsheathed (green in diag) - neutral black in diag - switched live red in sketch - load

The black is a live feed to the original thermostat that is only live during the times the timer switch is programmed to have the heating on. This lead is connected to the input on the original thermostat.

The red lead is the switched output from the thermostat. It operates the valve which in turn operates the bolier. For the red output to be live the timer switch must make the black live and the roomm temprature must be below the trigger temprature of the thermostat.

So far, so standard.

I suspect that the unsheathed neutral is either not used or wired to an anticipator circuit in the old thermostat. Basically a resistor that heats up then the thermostat is on and triggers a slightly early turn off.

Does this sound reasonable?

Guy

-- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Guy Dawson I.T. Manager Crossflight Ltd snipped-for-privacy@crossflight.co.uk

Reply to
Guy Dawson

Reply to
cindychanhello

Reply to
cindychanhello

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.