Wiring a cooker hood

If the chimney/ cover goes as high as the ceiling, then you could drop a feed down inside the cover, with an isolation switch just to the side of the cover.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield
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If the loading isn't more than 2 amps, how about a clock connector? Minimal front projection, so you could perhaps use a shallow surface box. It's fused, too.

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Reply to
Bob Eager

Not that high, unfortunately - Victorian house with high ceilings.

Reply to
Graeme

In the case of a fan, the switch is there for maintenance rather than emergency isolation. So it does not need to be readily accessible or especially visible.

Reply to
John Rumm

Now that is a good idea, and may just about be doable. I'll check the total wattage tomorrow. Haven't seen one of those for a few years. Parents had one over the mantle piece in house built 1953.

Reply to
Graeme

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Reply to
Bob Eager

You would hope the 3A fuse blows if the cover becomes live. If not then you are relying on the RCD to protect you.

I have seen plenty of installations where the cooker hood power is behind the hood with no other means of isolation. It is not something I would install that way.

As to if it complies with the regs I am not sure. I would say not best practice but not dangerous.

Reply to
ARW

When we moved in, the double oven had its isolator screwed to the floor of the cupboard immediately above the oven - at the back!

Needless to say, I moved that...

Reply to
Bob Eager

And why not? The lazy bastards that fitted it in the first place should have done their job properly.

Reply to
ARW

In message , ARW writes

Great advice Adam. Thank you.

Reply to
Graeme

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