Window frame, rot.

[Jimk]

*Any* wet rot wood hardener.

The quick ones are all styrene monomer.

[ss]

I have a area of rot on a window frame (image attached). I hacve scraped it out and will let it dry for a few days then intend to use wood rot hardener then fill with 2-part epoxy stuff.

Is this the best way to go or should I cut a section out and replace the wood. Damaged area is approx 20cms long and approx 2cms at widest.

Other question that piece of the sill does that go through to the interior of the frame? Not sure how these things are constructed.

[Tricky Dicky]

I would say you will get away with filling that after applying hardener. As for the sill yes you can get a sill that is moulded as one for the bottom member of the frame and a separate type known as a loose sill and yes it will extend to the inside. At a guess because there seems some cracking of the paint where the sill meets the frame I would say yours is a loose sill but you can always have a poke around to verify that.

Richard

[The Natural Philosopher]

paint

[ss]

The cracking of paint is where there is 3 layers. The bottom layer is a stone sill. Then there is the wooden part where it is rotted. And between the 2 is like a putty type substance.

[alan_m]

Judging by the photo just fill with 2 part wood filler or 2 part car body filler (whichever you can get the cheapest).

What I've done in the past with a much bigger area of damage is to cut out as much rot as passible, treat with wet wood rot hardener and find a piece of decent scrap wood that fills 2/3 of the hole and treat that as well. Fill the back of the hole with 2 part filler, hammer the scrap wood into the filler and then fill the rest of the hole covering the wooden fillet. The scrap wood saves having to use too much 2 part filler. Repair like this lasted me 5+ years before the windows were replaced with UPVC.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Which should last as long as the new paint. Not any longer than filling it with cement. ;-)

I've replaced the entire sill on a sash window without removing the frame.

[Andrew]

Be brutal. Get all the soft and/or rotten timber out and flood it with clear cuprinol. Leave for 7 days for the cuprinol to soak in and dry before making any repairs.

Best done in hot, dry weather, like we had through most of April.

[tabbypurr]

Cuprinol is oil based, sure won't help adhesion.

NT

[alan_m]

Ronseal wet rot wood hardener is much more effective and works within the hour

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Has anyone found they provide a long lasting repair?

My theory is if you have 'cheap' wood that is prone to rot and the rot has started, fixing a bit of it doesn't stop it happening in short order elsewhere.

[charles]

I have a window where the sill started to go about 6 or 7 years ago, I cut out the bad bit, used wood hardener and did what I thought was a decent repair. The rest of the sill has now decided to give up, so I'm having a new window fitted. The original was early 1970s Magnet. (before we bought the house)

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Exactly what I found. So if just wanting a repair to extend the life for a short while, any old filler is likely to work well enough. Wood hardener and two part filler if the common brand cost rather a lot.

[ss]

This repair is on an added porch from a few years back, I reckon cheap wood but as approaching 70 and maybe only 10 years life left I can maybe manage to prolong the frames so I dont have to replace it and leave it to someone else to do. :-)