My cheap plasplugs cutter leaves a pretty sharp edge, equally as sharp the odd scratch and snap I make.
Ah, I wasn't classing self coloured materials, like stone or marble, as tiles. In my book tiles are man made things and mostly not self coloured.
I can see that proper mitre could work there and with a small radius on the extreme edge you can reduce the risk of chipping.
It shouldn't do. It should give a near perfectly smooth edge. Score and snap never does.
It's smooth like as in a razor is smooth...
I have the basic plasplugs one (was £32 from machine mart) and that leaves a nice smooth edge...
Perhaps it depends on what type of wheel you have in it. You do cut them face up I take it?
Just wipe any sharp edges with a bit of emery paper..thats takes the knife edge off them.
Curves:
You can cut very slight curves just by following a line, however this is only any good for very gentle curves. If you want a "real" curve or semi circle, then the way I do it is to make repeated cuts into the tile leaving "fingers" of tile at right angles to the line. This leaves a "comb" effect on the tile:
######################## ######################## ###################### ######################## ################### of using an angle grinder instead of a tile cutter?
As a general solution it is not ideal - and certainly not when working indoors due to the *massive* amount of dust created. (tile cutters suppress the dust with the water bath)
For some tiles (very thick travatine marble etc), then it can work well if cutting outside, against a straight edge. You will need a very good diamond disc with side polishing insets for good results however (there is a Norton aerojet disc that screwfix do which is good for this - however be prepared to pay £50 for a 115mm disc!)
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D/
Next door had 'builders' in and they were cutting what looked like wall tiles with one in the street. Sparks everywhere. I suppose a skilled person might make a half decent cut with one (they couldn't), but an idiot should get a perfect cut every time with a wet cutter - and no dust. I'd guess the blades last rather better too. It's really rather like using a hand held circular saw vesus a bench type. No contest.
Thats how I'd do it as well but be aware that there will be a significant undercut at the edge of the curve, this means the edge is a bit fragile and sharp. Using the corner of the blade to even up the broken out teeth can be very effective.
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