I suspect the bin is made of Polypropylene, look for a triangular symbol with the letters "PP" inside it.
The problem with polypropylene is that the material has a low surface energy, that means gluing is rather difficult. Specialist glues do exist but they are quite expensive. I suspect normal epoxy putty products will not work unless moulded both inside and out around a hole which is difficult.
You could line the bin - pond liner or a giant heavy gauge plastic bag? Neither like UV re sunlight tho.
If the crack is on a flat or singularly curved surface, you can seal it with the application of a good quality wide insulating tape. Make sure the surface is clean and dry first. The water pressure will help keep the tape on. I had some tape like this in a tank for 15 years, without ever having to even replace it, and it never leaked.
Agree with what you say about sticking. It can also be welded with the right kit but that needs skill and/or luck (never had any success myself). But things like non-setting mastics ("frame sealant") will stick to it, especially if there is a decent area involved. So one strategy, if the geometry is favourable, is to fit an aluminium "patch" over one side, sealed with a liberal application of mastic. Pop rivets are good to hold this in place. If the crack looks like it might extend, drill a small hole (~ 2 mm dia) at each end to act as a stopper. You can use a patch each side, or large washers to spread the load on the non patch side. Can also use nuts and bolts. Works best for a crack/split in a reasonably flat area.
I recently repaired a PP wheelbarrow where a palm-sized piece had been knocked out on a corner using steel strip with pop rivets for the main reinforcement and Evostik "flashband" to provide a smooth interior and a seal. That seems to be sticking OK so far.
I used a pre-wheelie bin for water storage, complete with tap, for ages. It only died when somebody knocked it over and the tap was forced into the water part, tearing the plastic.
Polypropylene should be welded. It's fairly easy to do, but I wouldn't expect to get an acceptable, strong weld on a first try. You need a filler material (polypropylene) and a means of applying heat. A gas powered soldering iron with a tip designed for welding polypropylene is the best choice. I've welded many polypropylene petrol tanks[1] for generators/compressors this way
Heat along the line of the crack/gap with the iron and blend the material from each side of the gap together. Add extra material using the rod of filler material (or take offcuts from another polypropylene container and add those to the melt). Use the narrow chisel (knifeblade) of the soldering iron to melt the material and use the edge of the blade to smooth over the plastic. Care and practice can result in a weld that is as strong as the original. Large areas need a hot air blower and a tool to smooth/blend the plastic together.
[1] Don't try this unless you know exactly what you are doing. The tank needs to be purged of all petrol and vapour before welding.
Epoxy doesn't stick to polypropylene or polyethylene. Both are used as moulds or as tools to work with epoxy because after it has cured you can peel the polypropylene away from the epoxy.
I have used pond liner and the glue intended for that purpose to make interior repairs to old bins used on building sites that were cracked by mishandling and thrown out to make water butts for my garden.
The solvent glue also softens the main plastic slightly making it swell and so generates a reasonable bond onto the crack. Needs about 3-4" either side of the crack to ensure there is enough bonding. And you might have to put some clay silt in the first batch of water to seal up any tiny gaps. They don't like being moved at all.
You have to experiment to get it right but it is easier than hot welding. Takes ages to cure though. Mastic would be the other option instead of solvent based glue.
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