If the strip that the bottom of window closes against is loose, try removing and bedding it back in with some sealant.
Also try a smear of washing up liquid or something else that kills surface tension on the bottom of the window and the facing surface, it might help stop water being drawn in by capilliary action.
Can you actually see the water coming in? It might be that the wind blows it under the frame then opening the door to the room sucks it in.
A picture would be really helpful...
cheers, Pete.
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J
Jon
Thanks,
Will try to post a picture tomorrow (my dig camera's lousy, so won't really work at night).
While the occasional drop of water got through before, the unusual thing the other night was that you could actually see water flowing through and onto the carpet (soaked a big towel overnight...). You may have a point about a draught sucking it through - what I have noticed is that now I've got a towel pushed right against the window (presumably stopping any draughts) no water's got through in the rain this evening. Might be worth looking into...but then it hasn't rained so hard today...
Jon
J
Jon
OK - here's 2 photos (apologies for the poor quality) -
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and
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you can at least get an idea of the splashback type seal on the windows from these... Any suggestions gratefully received...
Jon
P
Pete C
The first thing to do would be to make sure the upstand that the window closes against is well sealed at the bottom and sides. If it was replaced with something wider/higher that sloped towards the window it would be better, as any small amounts of water would be held and allowed to drain back.
One other thing, is the flat at the corner of a block and in an exposed or high position? When wind blows strongly or gusts along one side of the building it creates a vacuum similar to an aerofoil or carburettor. This will tend to suck air in on the other perpendicular side of the building.
If this is the case then the other windows need to be sealed all round as well as possible. It should be detectable by holding a ciggy or some smouldering kitchen roll near the edges of the other windows when the wind is blowing to see if the smoke is sucked out.
These kind of leaks are worth blocking, although no cold draught is felt from them the heat is literally being sucked out of the building. The front door can be another source of draughts or air leaks.
cheers, Pete.
J
Jon
Cheers Pete.
"The first thing to do would be to make sure the upstand that the window closes against is well sealed at the bottom and sides. If it was replaced with something wider/higher that sloped towards the window it would be better"
Er...what's an upstand? And how does one replace it? Sorry for the daft questions, but I know sweet FA about windows ;)
"is the flat at the corner of a block and in an exposed or high position"
Yes, it is. My heating bills haven't been too high though - but I don't like it that hot, and the neighbours seem to keep their heating on high, so could just have been sucking their heat :) I think I have seen this type of effect when lighting candles etc - would this be fixed by improving the seals on the windows? Or I could always get one of those long sausage-shaped cushion-type draft excluders to stick in front of windows and doors? Or any other suggestions?
TIA,
Jon
P
Pete C
Just the 'splashback' the window closes against. It looks like a separate piece to the window frame, if so is it loose or quite secure? Is there a crack along the bottom between it and the window frame, and gaps at each end? Are the heads of any nails or screws that might be fixing it visible?
It would do. If you have a glazing shop locally they would have what you need or at least know where to get it. A few pictures of what needs to be sealed would help.
Probably not really necessary unless it's blowing a cold gale under the front door in the winter. I would have thought this unlikey if there are fire doors or an outside door and you're near the top of the building.
cheers, Pete.
J
Jon
Cheers. It seems to be glued on...it's not that loose, but the top doesn't seem to be quite upto the top of the frame and the bottom doesn't quite go to the bottom. Will see if I can find a friendly local glazing shop to ask, anyway :)
Jon
J
Jon
Hmm - the guy I'm getting to paint my windows offered to sort the leak as well; also thought it was likely to be down to a problem with the seal...said it'd be a couple of hours work, about =A330-50... This sounds reasonable enough if I'm getting it done properly (I've spent a tenner on materials trying and failing to bodge it with draught excluders!), but is there anything to look out for in terms of what's done to the windows? And can anyone recommend someone in Newcastle for that kind of work?
Cheers,
Jon
P
Pete C
Hi,
Best to ask first what he's planning to do, it might be just as easy to DIY it yourself.
cheers, Pete.
J
Jon
Good idea. Am getting them to send a quote - will see what they say they'll do ;)
Jon
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