What's the trick for painting front doors?

I realised that of all the jobs I've done over the years, I've never painted a front door. It shouldn't be difficult, of course, but I find that paint always takes a lot longer than the quoted time to dry properly, and front doors need to be closed at some stage or another, well within that time frame. So is there a way to get around this, or do you just hope it doesn't stick to the frame permanently when it's closed overnight?
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On 11/08/2014 19:55, GMM wrote:

washing up liquid
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On 11/08/2014 19:55, GMM wrote:

Build a porch, so you have two front doors.
Alternatively, you can use polythene sheet to stop the paint sticking.
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GMM wrote:

I used plumbers' PTFE tape.
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On Monday, August 11, 2014 7:55:54 PM UTC+1, GMM wrote:

Fit a UPVC door ;)
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On Monday, August 11, 2014 7:55:54 PM UTC+1, GMM wrote:

I closed mine enough so it looked closed from the outside, but wasn't quite touching, then fixed it with a big screw between the door and the jamb on the latch side.
Then put a pile of saucepans balanced against the inside.
Owain
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On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 19:55:54 +0100, GMM <GlMiMa-AT-yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

Paint it nice and early on a good drying day. Wedge it open against the security chain. At night, run parcel tape around the doorframe just in case parts are still sticky, then close the door against the parceltape for the night.
Nick
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On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 19:55:54 +0100, GMM wrote:

Painted ours last week. Painted at lunchtime, left open until evening. No problem when we closed it.
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On 12/08/2014 00:21, Bob Eager wrote:

So what was the trick? I find that even the quick drying water-based paints take far longer than the claim on the can to dry to the point where surfaces can be put against each other without sticking (then pulling bits off). I'm a bit constrained on this one, as I have to keep the same colour (-ish) due to conservation area rules, though I'm very tempted to strip it right back to wood as the finish seems to have poor adhesion to the primer/undercoat beneath it.
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How about when you opened it again?

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GMM wrote:

I have a very heavy machine which I drove into position behind the door.
Bill
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Well any door has this problem and although you will never get them to not stick at al, the most successful method I've seen is a kind of paper that appears greasy to the touch in the frame where the door fits. I'm sure this stuff has a name but I have no idea what it is!
It feels rather like the stuff that label backings are made from but on both sides. Brian
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On 12/08/2014 07:09, Brian Gaff wrote:

I'm thinking double-sided tape with the backing left on might be the stuff then. I can feel an experiment coming on.
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On 12/08/2014 07:09, Brian Gaff wrote:

Siliconised paper? You can buy that as a non-stick cooking sheet.
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It's also available in a 2 or 3 inch wide roll (for lining the sides of cake tins)- much easier than cutting sheets of the stuff and taping them together.
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That will cost yer though... Brian
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Erm, I do hope you jest. One of the main issues with fresh paint when I was young was that various pets seemed to like to leave their fur/hair all over it. Brian
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On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 7:14:18 AM UTC+1, Brian Gaff wrote:

I spake not in jest but in truth. Not sure where pets came into it (I had none) but not sure which is harder - getting cat fur out of emulsion paint, or getting emulsion paint out of cat's fur.
Owain
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That sounds a bit more economic.
Brian
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On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 19:55:54 +0100, GMM <GlMiMa-AT-yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

An identical front door kept in reserve that can be painted flat and left to dry for weeks. (it's the way the door of Number 10 Downing Street is done)
Or live in a pikey free area, leave the door open and tape plastic sheeting over the opening to keep wildlife out.
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