What outdoor switch

On 12/12/2018 15:44, FMurtz wrote:

Sorry I'm not sure what you mean about putting imgur into google.
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RobH wrote:

Therein lies the problem.
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He is getting there with the photos tho and may well be able to do the wiring of the switch safely now there are photos of it.
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On 12/12/2018 14:33, RobH wrote:

Its probably a neon rather than a LED...

No.
The neon is usually connected such that it is wired across the terminals you are using. That way when the light is off, the neon will "see" some load through the lamp[1], and light. When you turn the light on, the neon is now shunted out by the switch and goes out.
[1] This works ok on filament lamps, but might not work on a LED lamp.
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Was that the one where you had one with a black wire and somebody asked for a picture? Brian
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On 12/12/2018 18:14, Brian Gaff wrote:

Yes that is right and I have added 3 more pictures:
https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipOTBmpsAjEBHG6uNpHuAuZIryOkvid_MqEW7jTz?key=CNbku_3N5_-ZIQ
They are supposed to be shared.
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RobH wrote:

Suggest you log out of google to check if your links work as Joe Public before posting them, none have so far :-(
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On 12/12/2018 20:29, Andy Burns wrote:

Ok try this:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SZYrreuFHvQHrR9DfnwZ_MUVgRbeA392/view?usp=sharing
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That worked. The wiring is effective, though you don't want any stray strands outside the terminal of the brown wire. And it should according to regs have an earth wire from the plug to the light fitting. It may be reasonably safe, albeit not correct, if your light fitting does not need earthing because it has no or double insulated metalwork. And you do need to stop the cables pullng out of the box, either with special glands that screw into the switch box holes (? 20mm) or by clipping them to the wall.
--

Roger Hayter

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On 13/12/2018 00:17, Roger Hayter wrote:

The actual physical situation is:
Light on a roof beam with cable running to switch Power source, ie plug into 1 of the double socket, on a wall with cable running to switch. Switch has 2 lives and 2 neutrals from the light and the plug.
At the moment it doesn't work, and I showed the picture to an electrician who told me I had to many wires.
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RobH wrote:

if you just wire the L and N of the black wire into a 13A plug, and plug it straight in to socket (use extension reel if necessary) does LED batten work?
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On 13/12/2018 09:50, Andy Burns wrote:

I'm glad you asked, because it doesn't light up. I'm now going to take it back
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RobH wrote:

I presume something else plugged into the socket does work?
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On 13/12/2018 11:07, Andy Burns wrote:

Yes it does, and I used an electric pistol drill yesterday.
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On 13/12/2018 11:03, RobH wrote:

Ah, ok read this after my last post... you can ignore the fault finding steps then!
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Since it appears you only have a double socket permanently wired into the g arage, then if you want to make the lighting circuit into a permanent and p roper installation, then I would do the following;
Switch off power to garage
Fit a Fused Spur Unit (FSU) next to the socket and using a short length of T&E cable connect the SUPPLY terminals to the L, N & E in the socket. If yo ur sockets are near the door you can get a switched FSU and you will have n o need for a further switch. Make sure you sleeve any earth wires with gree n/yellow sleeving.
Run 1mm2 T&E from the LOAD terminals of the FSU to your switch if needs be and from there to your light fitting.
Wire the switch as in your photo remember to sleeve the Earths and connect them together.
Wire your light fitting again sleeving the Earth ensure you have correctly wired the L, N & E.
Replace the 13A fuse in the FSU with a 3A.
You should now be able to switch the power back on and your lighting circui t should work leaving both sockets free.
You say that your current switch is not working even though it appears corr ectly connected L & N wise. I would check you have L, N & E connected prope rly at both the socket end and light fitting. If you think it is the switch still faulty try swapping the wire in 1way to 2 way. Internally the switch is just a changeover switch that flicks from one terminal to the other. Th e only reason they are marked thus is to ensure when the switch plate is co rrectly orientated on its back box it is a downward press of the rocker tha t performs the switching. If it still does not work return it to B&Q, aitho ugh i might be tempted to test it with a multimeter or a low voltage lamp a nd battery first.
Richard
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Tricky Dicky wrote:

That would be the best long-term (though I suppose there's nothing 'wrong' with plugging the light in)
But I think simpler tests could be done first
1) check or swap the fuse in the plug 2) wire the light direct to the plug, with no switch involved.
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RobH wrote:

The wiring looks right, if it doesn't work, check the fuse in your plug, there are a few gotchas though ....
Looks like where you cut the outer insulation of the orange cable, you nicked the inner blue insulation.
You've got stray strands poking out of the live of the black cable.
You've chopped off the earth on the outgoing black cable, and have no incoming earth on the orange cable.
The wire from the neon is getting trapped under the case screw.
They might sound minor, but should be put right if you don't want it to scream "bodge job" ...
Is the switch actually outdoors or inside the garage?
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On 13/12/2018 05:44, Andy Burns wrote:

Thanks, and I'll correct the gotchas. I know about them, but was just concerned with getting it working at the time.
The switch is just inside the garage door.
Interestingly, and electrician whom I showed the picture to, said I had to many wires, and only needed 2. That confused me even more.
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RobH wrote:

He will be assuming it's wired "conventionally" via a ceiling rose, in which case there would be no neutral at the switch, did you explain that the orange cable was plugged in to 13A socket?
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