What makes a router fit a table, or not?

Sep 18, 2004 37 Replies

That could be an interesting option, although if you are going to use a router table regularly, it is worth dedicating a router to it to save time with mounting and demounting.

I have. They are OK in that they allow you to move the router more easily than you can by just attempting to push it up and down on the plunge mechanism, but they still don't allow you to easily do a precision setting.

Another good buy would be the CMT. This is another incarnation of the same DW625 and ELU that you have. Axminster have them at around £200.

If you have or get accessories like fine adjusters, plunge bars, even collets, they would be common to both.

This is no criticism of the Freud (it is a good product), but you might absorb the difference in cost in accessories.

.andy

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In article ,=20 snipped-for-privacy@hall.nospam says... snip

....and that has to be a lot cheaper than buying from Brimarc where $1 =3D= =20 =A31.

If only.

--=20 Paul Mc Cann

Hmm, keeping the neighbours sweet is a big item within the overall plan.

Do you mean that I should become a small-time UK distributor until I get shot of the extra copies? That's a really good idea! So good in fact, I'd be quite surprised if no-one else was doing it. :)

Yes, once I've found one that fits the increasingly detailed bill (thanks to your input), it'll be there for the long term.

Does the fine adjustment mechanism you described do what the lift bars do but more finely, or do they work in completely different ranges of movement?

Good point. I'm convinced.

Well certainly Brimarc isn't cheap. I was irritated that they aren't carrying the videos as well. A lot of VCRs will play back NTSC. Possibly it's a copyright issue.

.andy

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Just get an ear defender. It stops the nagging from TWMBO as well :-)

A lot of router noise is fairly high frequency, so some insulation around the walls and doors cuts it quite a bit.

Another thing to do is to take shallowish cuts.

.andy

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The lift bars simply do (more conveniently) what the plunge does when the router is up the other way. So you can adjust the router up against a depth stop, then use the fine adjuster to fine tune.

Another point that occurred is to take a careful look at the arrangements for cutter insertion and collet tightening. This can be a PITA with tables. If you are making one, having good access from the front is essential. If you can make it so that the assembly lifts up (without spoiling stability) then even better. Some of the wind mechanisms are able to raise the router so that the collet nut comes above the table and that is ideal.

.andy

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I think the fact that it will get me away from the computer puts the whole operation, including it's cons, in a favourable light. For a while :)

Nice additonal project. :)

Yes I see the importance of this. As the collet ni=ut of my current router doesn't pass through the base plate of the router it's yet another reason to get a more suitable router. Or are there mechanism that raise the router base above the table? Unlikely I suppose.

Well I'd be quite happy to order several copies if there are definitely takers for the extra packages.

OK. So the important thing is to make something that SWMBO wants as soon as possible after expenditure.

.andy

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Some of the ones with handles will raise at least the collet nut above the table with certain routers I believe.

.andy

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Fortunately there's no shortage of items on that list :)

Since the collet nut on my router doesn't pass through the base plate under any normal circumstance, then I have a very good reason for purchasing a new router. :)

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I made my router table hinged at the back. Make changung cutter or setting precise heights very easy.

Here's a review on the Freud Router, if anyone's interested:

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woodworking in general the main site is good
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Rgds

Noel

actually lower than that mentioned - it is just the bar graph on the side that suggests 12k, its more like 8 to 10k which is better if you are using the biggest cutters.

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