Water pressure

Raising the tank *will* increase the pressure - but not by enough to induce leaks in your hot tank and pipework. [Incidentally, dry joints are what you want! - they are only bad in electrical/electronic circuits.]

You may *still* not get an adequate flow from your shower, though. A better solution would be to install a shower pump in the hot and cold feeds to the shower - triggered by a flow switch so that, as soon as you get *some* flow due to gravity, the pump kicks in and gives you a half-way decent shower. [You could also use the pump to fill the bath a bit faster if you have common feeds to the bath and shower, and install the pump before the split].

Make sure that you have an adequately sized feed pipe from the cold tank down into the bottom of the hot cylinder. This should be at least 22mm - preferably 28mm.

It will certainly increase the pressure and flow rate. However, it probably will be insufficient to make it acceptable. You might wish to consider using a pump instead. Probably less work to install as well. Pumps start from around 99 quid.

Christian.

I'd say do both, raise tank and fit pump, with 28mm piping. Unless the input side of the pump gets enough flow, there is a tendency to suck air into the system from the hot tank vent tube.

regards Capitol

terminology: cold water storage "tank" hot water storage "cylinder"

Installing Surrey flange on the cylinders draw-off, will prevent air being sucked in.

Not always, you can get cavitation effects and that's with both an Essex and a Surrey flange! Regards Capitol