Waste pipe from sink leaking

[Murmansk]

The pipe from kitchen sink is leaking where you can see on this photo

It'd be hard to put a new piece in as the lower end of the pipe is cemented in very neatly where it passes through block paving and the top end where it comes through the wall is quite well attached too.

So there's no scope to move the pipe at either end to insert a new piece and two junctions.

Someone's tried to seal the joint with no luck, I've tried to push PTFE tape into the gap but no joy.

Pipe diameter is 43mm

Any ideas?

[The Natural Philosopher]

cut the thing to within two inches of the wall, and the ground, and fit some new pipes with solvent weld...

[newshound]

You *might* get away by using the plumbers' epoxy putty. It looks as though the pipes are painted, give the affected area a good scrape and/or wire brushing.

[nothanks]

Break-out the mortar, replace pipe, replace mortar

[The Natural Philosopher]

Epoxy doesn't stick to pvc

solvent cement does

[Brian Gaff (Sofa)]

Many years ago, I used eurothane bond for this but it only lasted a couple of years, possibly due to the flexing of t the pipe, but it was a long time ago. Brian

[tabbypurr]

Those are some impressive paint runs.

Normally one would cut the trouble section out & fit new pipe with 2 connections. Only problem is you won't be able to slide new into old as it looks like there's no scope for movement. Whatever you do is going to be either a bodge or include breaking concrete. I'd try a bodge first: remove paint around joint, apply pvc in solvent (if it is pvc) fairly generously but tidily. It might well work. Epoxy is the wrong stuff for pvc.

NT

[newshound]

Sticks to ABS though. And there are two sorts of solvent cement, one for ABS and one for PVC. One "wrong way round" works, the other does not.

And I did carefully say "might". It's a quick, cheap, and easy option to try.

My other favourite technique for things like this is a wrap, under tension, of ordinary PVC electrical tape. Difficult to do neatly with a pipe so close to the wall, but can provide a very long term repair (especially out of sunlight).

[Bob Eager]

Self amalgamating tape worked well for me.

Another thing I used was this. Cut the pipe at both ends (near wall/ ground). Cement in smaller pieces of pipe with an OD just small enough to fit inside the stubs. Fit new pipe over stubs and cement.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Which is what I was suggesting...

Get rid of the bodge and install something pukka

[tabbypurr]

How do you propose to get the new length of pipe over the stubs? There's no updown movement possible there afaict.

One way is to cut your new section in half and cement in a stub there. Get the lengths right & that'll work.

NT

[Murmansk]

I think two these and a new section of pipe are the answer

[Tricky Dicky]

They would do it but at a price. A length of pipe and one elbow or swept bend would be far cheaper. From my experience faced with something similar it was easier disassembling the whole thing and replacing with new. I certainly found that pipes disappearing into walls and mortar as at the drain usually came out with a little twisting and jiggling leaving a nice neat hole for a similar diameter pipe to be pushed through.

One hint do not paint pipes like this it causes all sorts of problems when it comes to adding, fixing or replacing bits.

Richard

[Tricky Dicky]

Follow up to previous answer

Prices at Toolsatan:

3M X 40mm pipe = £3.77 1 off 40mm elbow = £0.66

Plus Solvent if needed @ £4.95

Richard

[Fredxx]

There are flexible connectors like:

However, I would cut either side of the old coupler and replace with a short piece and two solvent weld couplers. Clean the pipe back to ABS and connect the short piece and coupler to the lower part.

Remove the internal flange inside the other coupler so it can slide over the pipe. Fit to the upper pipe and slide up. Slide down to but against the first coupler.

Use copious quantities of solvent glue and you have a permanent and neat solution.

[Andrew]

And allow for the expansion and contraction caused by hot water being discharged, solar gain (considerable) and freezing winters.

This could pull apart even the best solvent welded joint.

Chipping away the cement where the pipe enters the ground and incorporated a sleeve of some sort might help. maybe use a hand-tightened compression joint as the sleeve, not too tight and with some vaseleine. then grout the compression joint into the ground allowing the pipe to slide up and down.

[Andrew]

+1

And use a sleeve so that the pipe itself can move with thermal expansion.

[newshound]

It is not a very long exposed length

And pvc is resilient

Way OTT.