Washing machine brushes (which ones)

[p.mc]

Hi all

I have a Bosch Classix 1200 Express washing machine E-Nr. WFO2466GB/05 FD 8407 609529

Anyhow I replaced them about 6 months ago but they've worn down again, I think I paid about £16 for them. The man in the shop assured me they were good ones although they never had a number printed on the brushes as the originals did (can't remember now) but I was expecting longer use.

The commutator! looks and feels smooth (spindle that contacts with the brushes)

I've seen some advertised at around £38 but I don't honestly know if these are any better than the last!

At a guess I'd think that the more expensive ones are denser/harder! is that correct?

01...What is the key to good value for money replacements? 02...Should I be looking at carbon percentage or something like that? 03...What do the numbers printed on the carbon mean?

Example...The 2 sets of brushes below are suitable for this model (WFO2466GB/05) £8 replacement and £38 original. If the original ones last 5 times longer then I have no problem getting these, but in any ones experience does this equate? And what is your advice thank you.

Regards p.mc

[Tim]

't help but just curious because I've never had to replace brushes on any of my washing machines and the motors haven't died on any of them. They've all live to a ripe old age and only been replaced because of incontinence or programmer problems. Is this unusual?

Tim

[Bob Eager]

Hotpoints are notorious for getting through brushes. I replaced ours about every three years.

The Bosch Classixx is, I believe, one of the made-not-in-Germany range. I think they are probably in the kind of Hotpoint range in terms of build and cost.

Incidentally, the genuine brushes are available from Bosch online for £33.84 plus £4.99 carriage. They are pretty quick getting them to you.

[Dave Liquorice]

Is it clean? There shouldn't be anything other than minimal deposits on it. Have you looked at it when running? Is there much arcing, that will erode brushes PDQ.

[NT]

Sounds like you got a substandard part. I'd just get a replacement from anywhere else.

NT

[McGyver]

It happens that p.mc formulated :

> Regards

Brushes last for many years in an otherwise good motor. Since you say the comutator looks and feels smooth, that leaves only three possibilities: bad brushes, wrong model brushes or a bad motor wire connection.

The defect in bad brushes would be soft material. I'm guessing this is not the problem because it seems to me it would not be cheaper to make brushes out of a softer aloy. I've never heard of such a thing, but I suppose it is possible.

The likely culprit is arcing. That could be caused by brushes that are not wide enough to span the gap between the comutator contact areas. That would cause arcing. But that defect would be noticable. I don't think you would fail to notice that the new brushes are half the width of the old ones.

The more likely cause would be a disconnected motor winding. That would cause one or more of the comutator contact areas to be dead. That would cause arcing every time a brush leaves that comutator trace and connects to a hot trace. I think you need a new motor.

McGyver

[NT]

Reinspection would show burning on the commutator metal surface.

NT

[Fredxx]

The OP said the commutator was smooth, but didn't say if it was dull or shiny.