A modern condensor is the most likely type to be allowed to be boxed in. Some require no ventilation at all. I'd obtain the installation manual first, to be sure.
Christian.
A modern condensor is the most likely type to be allowed to be boxed in. Some require no ventilation at all. I'd obtain the installation manual first, to be sure.
Christian.
Plasterboard is an good fire resistant material. You can even get a specific fire resistant grade, with even better properties.
Christian.
Luckily for me the house sale is taking ages. So I've had plenty of time to look through my Colin's DIY book :)
Ok, noted. I'll use plasterboard where the wall is exposed.
Thanks,
-Duncan
It's AGA, and although it would help a bit, they are so well insulated that only about 700W is released through the case.
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
Its not bad. I tried to burn some. It charred eventually, and there was a small amount of flame, but it wouldn't sustain combustion on its own. Took a hot fire to get rid of the scraps, no noxious fumes really - and I had to break down the residue.
yes. MDF DOES burn well, with unpleasant fumes.
600W according to my specs.
In message , The Natural Philosopher writes
Absolutely, they'll be 50-100mm of dead space behind the back panels of base units, so you can very easily slice the depth down to get 50mm of celotex + plasterboard (or ply). Wall units use as is, they'll be a bit closer than normal, that's all. Depending on the units, you may have to reposition some of shelf fixings, although I've done a couple of kitchens where units have been slimmed down to give more user space, fit in corner runs, appliances etc, don't recall any problems, though sinks & appliances may by an issue (so step back to normal depth a couple of units from the door? Make a feature of it somehow)
If you cut the excess depth off the sides before assembling, they would not need to go back to the wall. The worktop would need to be cut down the same amount too though.
Colin Bignell
Hi
I'm not familiar with celotex but I cant help asking an almost cheeky question. Is the surface by any chance hard enough that one could fit celotex, fill any gaps, and paper straight onto it? If so that would give you 50% more insulation depth. It sounds unlikely, but always worth asking.
Regards, NT
I've not actually seen the stuff before, but I'd be surprised if you couldn't poke your finger through it's surface. So it should need a solid covering to prevent the wall being damaged. I could be wrong though...
-Duncan
N. Thornt> Hi
Someone can tell us. It occurred to me that formica sheet would be good for this, its very cheap (at least when attached to chip it is), has quite a good durable surface, and insulation plus formica would be good insulation wise. No doubt theres a reason for not using it though.
Regards, NT
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