There are various insulation "knock in" plastic fixings whereby you knock a peg into a tube.
Are they strong enough to go thro 9.5mm PB & 40mm Celotex?
Obviously the PB would require a 5-6mm skim, just wondered if it would work re avoiding wood battens on solid brick walls and all the mucking about that involves.
I have seen some designed for external insulation - they have an expanded lath type disc on the head, and go through EML, and 50mm PIR foam, and are designed to carry a coat of render as well.
dot and dab the PIR PBoards, add a couple of frame fixers at head height (for fire safety), skim with usual 2mm - voila!
worked for me & am still here with no probs 4.5yrs later ;>)
Jim K
Seems to be a lot of hammer-in fasteners on the market. They are attractive because of drill - insert - whack, rather than messing about with wooden battens. That said a wooden batten at the bottom seems a good idea to act as a shear-brace. Good point about fire, Rawlplug do polypropylene (Screwfix) and Fischer do nylon & metal, something metal is required for fire because if the plaster falls off PIR foam is pretty nasty. That said I find it an odd argument for domestic because you are dead if not out in a few minutes anyway, long before plastic plasterboard fixings have failed.
Re dot-n-dab, was that onto the foil and onto solid wall? Interesting and quick "splodge" solution.
I think I will go with the hammer-in fixings, 40mm celotex should solve that icy box-room solid wall.
think the idea is that *if* the fire gets behind the pboard and into the PIR foam and so loosens the boards attachment to the wall by adhesive dabs- those fixings will hold it up that bit longer whilst you/a fireman get out /past
yup straight foam (latterly paper faced xtratherm) backed insulated plasterboard onto solid walls, with frame fixers as mentioned. Quick, easyish easier with 2 ppl, also accomodated some degree of "out of vertical" /lumps and bumps with judicious use of extra pboard adhesive.
I reckon very much yes.. the effect here was excellent and so as I am working my way around this ol' house I have done the same with various "newer" insualted pboards - just got to work on the draughts a bit but the stoves need an air supply....;>)
Cheers Jim K
It is 2 outside walls with a nearby T-junction which is in almost compass-perfect with the prevailing wind, so it gets a jet-blast of air... leaves... flying cats... waste paper... junk mail... postman :-)
The good thing about internal insulation is the very fast warmup and perceived comfort.
can you measure comfort any other way??
Jim K
Yes, lack of discomfort :-)
Internal insulation means there is no delay to the room warming up; that is to say you are not having to heat the inner leaf of a cavity wall which even though it is insulated is slow to warm up from (say) a background temperature to a higher comfort temperature.
So internal insulation is very useful for rooms which are only occasionally used and "on demand heated", such as utility, box-rooms, storage rooms and so on. Whereas external insulation is good for rooms continually occupied 24x7 where you want a high thermal mass to even out the daily cycle and high thermal mass to not suddenly go cold when an outside door is opened.
Frankly I wish UK construction would go the way of those clay-stick- together-jumbo-blocks. Unfortunately they are actually pretty expensive, the saving is in labour which will never catch on with the UK construction industry (or politicians).
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