Hi all. I'm close to finishing a built in wardrobe. Its built with real beech veneered mdf, beech and some oak trimming. Can you recommend a varnish for this?
Also, the beech veneer has picked up a few scuff marks/dirt. Whats the easiest way to clean this off?
Thanks.
Arthur
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Stuart Noble
Wax is a pretty safe bet if you want a pale finish. Varnishes tend to give veneer a "wet" look
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Andrew May
I did the same but in maple veneered mdf and solid maple edging. I used an acrylic sanding sealer and then wax on top. That was perhaps four years ago and it still looks fine. If it does start to look worn I will just apply more wax.
Andrew
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The Natural Philosopher
Clear Acycrlic ronseal..water based.
Sand with fine grit - 200 /320 etc.
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The Natural Philosopher
Not if a matt one it wont.
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Brian Sharrock
I used _Four_ coats of matt pva varnish, rubbed down with 0000 wire-wool between coats. The first coat looked good, the second coat looked 'better'; the third coat looked 'really good' and I couldn't actuall 'see' a difference on the fourth coat - but as I'd 'started' I decided that I'd better finish!
I'd suggest brushing the scuff marks _lightly_ with water to raise the grain, then elbow grease with a fine grit.
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Andy Dingley
Nope. If you've done a good job, don't hide it under varnish.
I'd start by oiling it (commercial tung-based finishing oil, like Liberon's)
Then I'd maybe shellac it, but Stuart's suggestion of wax is a good one too. Use either button shellac (cheap from Screwfix) for a mid orangey-brown tint, or use a blonde shellac (Liberon again, from Axminster) to keep it light.
After applying shellac with a 3/4" artist's synthetic watercolour brush, allow to dry (at least a day in this weather) Rub down with a grey Scotchbrite pad. You could also use a rubber (cotton waste in cotton handkerchief) for the finishing coats.
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The Medway Handyman
Tried Coloron Antique Oil? Nice sheen, dead easy to apply.
Fine sandpaper or fine wire wool & patience :-)
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