Valve to toilet leaking

Isolation valve with tap which connects to bottom of toilet inlet.

Tried removing, reapplying PTFE but still leaking. Any ideas?

I guess only option it to completely replace valve? Only problem is its the isolation valve also so I'd need to completely shut off water.

And, of course, by cutting off the valve I'd have to make sure the valve reaches toilet valve.

Any suggestions? I guess I could cut off, replace isolation, add flexible pipe.

Or just call a plumber? :-(

Reply to
paulfoel
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There is a fair chance that the threads will be the same on a replacement one so you can re-use the nuts & olives (assuming it a compression type. If the pipe is 15mm, you can get a repair joint that will give you the added pipe length for a complete replacement.

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NB this is the DIY group - we don't call plumbers!

Reply to
Bob Minchin

On Friday 27 December 2013 13:50 paulfoel wrote in uk.d-i-y:

That's a pretty simple job and would be a good solution. Recommend Peglar T- valves for something that actually tends to stay working:

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Reply to
Tim Watts

Tim Watts wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@squidward.local.dionic.net:

1st step is to assume the thread will be the same and go for fitting a new valve body. Don't put PTFE Tape on the olive or the threads - just ensure they are really clean. Remember it is the olive that forms the seal - the thread is there to pull the joint up tight.

If the new valve does not fit then take the other option of shortening the pipe, fitting a valve and a flexy.

Reply to
DerbyBorn

Where exactly is it leaking - where the isolation valve connects to the toilet's float valve, or where it connects to the pipe - remote from the cistern?

If it's the first of these, it could be due to either (or both!) of two reasons.

There will be a fibre washer inside the upper nut of the isolation valve, to seal against the bottom of the inlet pipe. If this is perished, replace it.

Worse - if the input pipe of the float valve is made of plastic, the bottom end of that may have crumbled. If so, you'll have to replace the whole float valve. [If you *do* need to do that, the new one should be a straight swap - but be aware that the length of thread does vary a bit from model to model - so you may need to adjust the length of pipe on the far side of the isolation valve - BTDTGTTS!]

Reply to
Roger Mills

Fibre washer was mashed so replaced that and its fine now. Thanks everyone.

Reply to
paulfoel

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