Unrestrained TWE behind kitchen units

Its amazing how many tit bits one doesn't know, don't ya know ! If I put sockets inside kitchen base units that are wired to TWE that is at some point fixed to the wall, there may be some "loose" TWE "hanging" across the wiring void between the wall and the units. In other words, some length of unrestrained cable. I cannot think how this could be avoided, but is it OK ?

Also what about loose TWE draped across the floor behind / under the units. That seems like poor form, but I have seen it in "pro" installations.

Simon.

Reply to
sm_jamieson
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some point fixed to the wall, there may be some "loose" TWE "hanging" across the wiring void between the wall and the units.

There is a recommendation in the OSG that you don't put wiring accessories on kitchen units. However, I regard this as somewhat dated, as just about everyone has a kitchen rewired nowadays when the kitchen is replaced. A better recommendation would be to avoid putting wiring accessories in/on items with a shorter expected life than the wiring installation.

Another way to do what you are doing is to use surface mount accessories on the wall behind the units, suitably spaced forward and/or in suitably deep boxes to appear as flush accessories through a rear panel cutout. I tend to use IKEA units which have no space behind, so I use flush mounting accessories in back boxes, and cut a suitable hole in the rear pannel to line up exactly with the back box opening.

That seems like poor form, but I have seen it in "pro" installations.

That's absolutely standard, even in new-builds. I would suggest: Avoid any junctions on the floor as even a minor flood will hit them. Make sure cable is routed behind the rear legs, so cabinents can be slid out and in without having to lift over cables.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

s at some point fixed to the wall, there may be some "loose" TWE "hanging" = across the wiring void between the wall and the units.

its. That seems like poor form, but I have seen it in "pro" installations.

Maybe we need a new part p type rule to cover unrestrained cables, as such things are considered dangerous by 75% of randomly selected respondents (who were, by pure concidence, almost all on the dole and knew nothing about electrics). Cables must now be restrained every 6", the restraints must meet BS, and said restraints can only be installed by 'competent scheme members,' and must be inspected annually at =A3200 a time. The certifying authority has met with some resistance from the trade, so has chosen to do its best to pass anyone that turns up for the course. Possibly these people are more 'competent' than competent, but no system's perfect is it. To make sure it all works we will be appointing a complaints overseer. He's has every faith that relying on tradesment's reports will ensure a fair safe system for all, and is being paid =A3100k pa to ensure it is.

The resulting cost per qaly of this scheme? about =A310 billion, but safety's a great idea isn't it. If you dont agree, you're irresponsible. Meanwhile the NHS struggles to meet its target of =A310,000 per qaly.

NT

Reply to
NT

some point fixed to the wall, there may be some "loose" TWE "hanging" across the wiring void between the wall and the units.

There are limits on how far you can self support cables, but 6" is not a problem!

That seems like poor form, but I have seen it in "pro" installations.

Makes them more vulnerable to rodent damage, but not in itself a problem.

Reply to
John Rumm

s at some point fixed to the wall, there may be some "loose" TWE "hanging" = across the wiring void between the wall and the units.

I could do that but they would be very far forward as at that point I would= have the 60 or 70mm wiring space + thickess of carcass + 20mm due to the l= ack of plasterboard at that height. It would really be out on stalks !

I also need a couple of double pole isolator switches under the sink on the= side panel (to switch outside sockets and power) next to a corner, to ther= e I would have to surface wire those along the inside of the unit. I dont w= ant "even more" switches on the wall, so having them slightly concealed but= reachable under the sink seems a good location, since they are not directl= y anything to do with the kitchen. I'd probably put some of that square tru= nking over the cables inside the unit.

Also this fits logically with having the outside tap isolator valve under t= he sink.

Cheers, Simon.

Reply to
sm_jamieson

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