When inflating the tyre after fitting it to the wheel, they always go to way over the running pressure before it 'pops' onto the rim.
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1 year ago
Tyres.
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1 year ago
Same here. But dire warnings about using it beyond its maximum setting to undo stupid tight nuts.
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1 year ago
A breaker bar is cheap enough to keep in the car just for wheel changing. A decent torque wrench, not
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1 year ago
You've not owned an older Rolls Royce? Shame on you.
(They had left hand thread cap nuts on the left hand wheels up until the mid 60s at least)
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1 year ago
Also, has anyone ever seen a tyre fitted with the dot aligned with the valve?
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1 year ago
At least I know where to find it should I need for anything else.
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1 year ago
Some vans had left hand threads on LH wheel-nuts in the 70s.
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1 year ago
I use a 3/4" socket set to undo anything that tight, and add a pipe to extend leverage if necessary.
Last time I used that technique it was on was a bearing puller, where I also stripped the threads on the bolt. It was M20 with a fine thread, not the usual coarse thread. Replaced with M20 studding (and nuts) with a stronger coarse thread which was able to impart sufficient force to pull this bearing out of its carrier.
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1 year ago
If I'm at home, I have a compressor and and a rattle gun for the tight ones. It's a whole lot faster and easier.
That's the problem with extending the bar with a tube. I've got a damaged thread in a welded on nut on my wife's car (rattle gun wouldn't work on that one, as the bolt was seized into the crush tube and it just vibrated a bit, being mounted in rubber). I'm just waiting for a longer replacement bolt to arrive and I'll drill straight through and put a threadlocked nut on the outside.
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1 year ago
I'm no tribologist or engineer but thought that:
a. coefficient of friction isn't a physical property of the material but of the system so e.g. changes if a surface is polished
b. with wheel nuts/bolts an awful lot of the torque goes to overcome friction on the thread and under the nut/bolt head so a small change in the friction makes for bigger changes in the clamping force.
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1 year ago
The problem isn't the price, its the inconvenience of it in the car.
A decent extending L shaped thing doesn't cost any more than a breaker bar, works a lot better and fits in the wheel well with the spare.
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1 year ago
yip ...and it is a TIRE ....
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1 year ago
That probably depends on the car. Mine has plenty of room in the wheel well for my torque wrench, two moulded plastic wheel chocks and a yellow PVC work suit.
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1 year ago
As the torque increases its all about stretching the stud. The friction goes along with that.
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1 year ago
I have found bolts/nuts a rattle gun won't undo that I can with a lever and socket set.
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1 year ago
Think it is still common on larger vehicles.
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1 year ago
Tyre places these days seem to use cordless ones. Rather more powerful than most cordless impact drivers.
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1 year ago
Ah - the old 'do I grease the treads etc or not'?
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1 year ago
Ages ago, you could buy a gun specifically for removing tight wheel nuts - Halfords sold them. Powered from the car battery. It sort of ran up to speed then whacked the nut in the undo direction. And repeated as needed. Said to cope with something like 200 ft.lb. Got one somewhere. Handy for undoing crank pulley bolts on an auto.
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1 year ago
As I mentioned a while back, we have had a similar problem. The garage we use for tyres and most other car stuff repeatedly resealed the tyre with a slow leak, then said it must be the alloy wheels, recommended getting them reconditioned, and gave us the phone number of a place to get it done. When my wife showed up there with the car, they took one wheel off and said they didn't have a set of spare wheels that would fit our car, but they could do them one at a time while we drove around on the doughnut spare.
I have a cordless tyre pump from Aldi. I top the tyre up 3 or 4 times a week (not by much) and check all of them once a week. I figure this is probably safer than what most people do (ignore until they notice one is flat).