Tyres.

[Dave Plowman (News]

I've had this done in the past. But only a short term fix, as the corrosion will continue.

Bet you didn't see him consult a chart etc to set the torque wrench.

[Dave Plowman (News]

A breaker bar is easier. ;-)

But. The supplied wheel brace that came with the car should be capable of undoing a correctly torqued nut. No point in supplying one if it won't.

The correct figure for this old Rover is 88Nm (66lb.ft) It also has very expensive SS replacement wheel nuts (original chrome) which seem NLA these days.

[Andy Burns]

True enough, and they never seem capable of getting the correct tyre pressure that matches the manufacturer sticker on edge of the driver's door.

[Robin]

I'm a bit surprised the "correct" torque for OE nuts can be counted on for nuts of a different material which may be finished differently.

[Martin Brown]

IME They seem to adopt a rough and ready constant value somewhere in between the correct front and rear values and light loading tending to the high side. Always worth checking tyre pressures when you get home. (and monitoring them more often for a couple of weeks afterwards)

It does a new tyre no good at all to be under inflated. (over inflated within reason is less damaging)

[SteveW]

I use an extending wheelnut wrench to undo them. My torque wrench's 1/2" square drive can be pushed straight through to the other side for tightening left-hand threads.

[SteveW]

In my case, I knew the reason why - a 4" hose with a very large and solid metal fitting on the end, fell off a tanker, into my lane, right in front of wheel. It's a pity I didn't have chance to get his details and chase him up for the cost of a replacement.

[Joe]

In my early motoring days, I was always religious about tyre pressures, with the result that when the first few needed replacement, the centre had worn more than the edges.

As far as I can see, the correct tyre pressure is one which wears the tyres evenly, not what's in the handbook, so I usually ran the tyres a few pound low (officially), in order to get even wear.

Any problems soon became evident, as apart from Michelin, which were significantly more expensive than other brands, tyre life was typically

10,000-20,000 miles.

[zaq]

Not when you are away from home, as you normally are when you need to use the spare.

But as you say elsewhere, few of the tyre sellers bother to check the torque required.

[Joe]

Or preventing a new valve from seating properly. My leaky valves leak only very slowly, and immersion in water does *not* produce a stream of bubbles. It needs to be left in the water for several minutes, during which time one or more bubbles will form. A quick glance will not do.

[Andy Burns]

They always seem to have a get-out clause where they tell you to double-check the bolts after 50-100 miles ...

[Tim+]

Oof. Think of the particulates!

Coming up to 32,000 miles on my original tyres in my tyre shredding, planet killing EV.

Tim

[mm0fmf]

Had that in my last car. The inside of the alloy corroded and the tyre didn't seat properly. Result was a slow and the TPM triggering all the time. Found a quality tyre company who fixed it by grinding off the vanish/finish on the inside of the alloy and painting it. After that no more leaks. By the time I sold the car at 9 years old I'd needed this doing to 3 wheels.

[mm0fmf]

And? I used to get well over 40k miles per set of all season tyres on a Honda CRV with regular rotation. Lucky to see 15k with Y rated tyres now.

[Colin Bignell]

The place I go to is very good at getting them right, but the torque wrench is so that, if I have to change a tyre, I also get it right. It is 3ft long, because that is what I had available.

[Colin Bignell]

I've never needed to set a torque on a left hand thread.

[SteveW]

They're certainly uncommon.

[The Natural Philosopher]

It wont be far off. What you do when torquing a nut is to set the elasticity of a threaded stud to exert a certain pressure between the nut face and the (in this case) wheel, and it's that which generates the 'stiction' to stop it coming undone.

Friction coeff. of a different nut is the only variable and I doubt stainless steel is much different from ordinary.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Think I have. huge nut on Maxi gearbox shaft.

[Dave Plowman (News]

Good grief. The difference in friction between chrome plated and SS tiny if any.