This is my meter (the meter I use most of the time). Page 17 lower left corner has the current measurement shunt. it's not a Kelvin setup, just an ordinary resistor. The BOM in the front of this document, does not give sufficient detail to determine what it's made of.
In fact, even with a single multimeter, measuring current is problematic. I don't really think the specs in the user manual do justice to how bad this is.
The accuracy is listed as +/-2% plus 5 digits. Which means the digit in the last place pretty well flaps in the breeze.
With 20A into it, the shunt develops 20A * 0.01 ohm = 200mV FS.
I tested it with a 1 ampere source (3.3V wall adapter, 3 ohm power resistor), and the voltage developed across the meter starts to rise with time. Which means as (something) in the path gets hot, the total resistance of that leg of the circuit is changing.
So even without adding two panel meters or two multimeters to the mix, the measurement is already a shambles.
Why do you think I *never* measure current with a multimeter ? There's very little wear on those meter connectors. The 20A scale, today is the first time a test lead has been plugged in there. I have used the 200mA scale for setting up some low-current constant current sources.
The clamp-on ammeter (which cost 3x what my multimeter cost), the zero on it tends to drift. I would expect the Hall probe to drift a bit as it warms up. It uses the right-hand rule to make measurements. A voltage develops across the Hall Probe silicon die, in proportion to the constant current source pushed through the probe, and the mag field into the face of the die. Each of these things being on a different axis (X-Y-Z). But the clamp-on ammeter is non-intrusive. For the person with the BMW who sought to measure vampire loads while the car is off, a clamp-on ammeter offers the best possibility of making a measurement without setting off any tumblers in the car. You can't tell that it's making a current measurement. Not under most circumstances.
I measured the vampire loading on my 2002 car, and it was less than 20mA (that's the absolute lower limit on the clamp-on meter - Hall Probes can go lower than that, but the meters for sale don't usually play in that range). My car doesn't update its Facebook page, when you pull the key out. It's electrically mostly quiet (I think the OBDI connector might respond, if you plugged into it).
A Kelvin shunt made with manganin, is a start at a decent shunt, but the whole idea of shunt measurement is just asking for trouble. That's why some of the Kill-O-Watt meters, when they failed, people would open them up and find the shunt had melted the solder it was sitting on, and the shunt "floated out of place". That's why you don't measure electric kettles with a Kill-O-Watt meter, because of whatever shortcut was taken in shunt design. The specs for the Kill-O-Watt meter imply measuring kettles is OK, but you should be automatically suspicious when they make claims like that. Even in the case of my multimeter, with its 0.01 ohm shunt, the full scale power dissipation is 4W and there's no air movement inside the multimeter to speak of. "A soldering we will go..." That's why the duty cycle is ON for 30 seconds, OFF for 15 minutes (ugh!). That's an advertisement for "we did something naughty in here". I don't have to worry too much, testing at 1 ampere.
The clamp-on DC ammeter, it can measure 400 amperes all day long, and all that happens to it, is the nine volt battery will die on it. There are no "soldering-like" incidents. I've measured 150 amps with that meter, that's the highest thing I've measured so far. Imagine what kind of shunt it would take to do that, the other way. Mr.Kelvin would be as big as your arm and have fins for cooling.
*******That's why this meter is about the best you can do in the Chinese jokey meter market. The last picture in the advert, shows it is a low-side monitor. OK, so it doesn't have any real specs. Who is counting ?