Turbogold - snap, and the head is gone!

Although a fan of the turbogold screws from Screwfix I managed to tear the heads off a couple this afternoon.

Screw into a wall plug, then try and unscrew and the head comes off instead of the screw coming out.

It could be the impact driver being a bit too enthusiastic but it was a pain and caused some extra work.

So is there a good alternative to turbogold screws with a bit more meat around the shaft?

Modern screws seem a lot slimmer than the older ones, especially the old steel slot head screws.

Cheers

Dave R

Reply to
David.WE.Roberts
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Yes, I've noticed that - seem quite 'brittle'.

Reply to
RJH

I wouldn't use Turbogold in a wall plug.

I wouldn't use an impact driver to put screws in wall plugs.

Quicksilver.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

They are carbon steel and hardened. The whole idea is to make them easier to drive in and to hold better. Also, no pilot hole in many cases and self counter sinking. Compared with the old screws, wonderful.

You shouldn't need an impact driver. I use the bits from electric drivers and bit holder to convert to hand use. Just chuck the bits away when worn, they last a long time for hand use. You can get the "diamond dust" ones that grip really well.

Reply to
harryagain

"harryagain" wrote in news:l2b9t0$uso$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

General gripe about modern screws - they are not tapered therefore they don't wedge open a wall plug like the old ones did. They cut a thread into the plug which is not what is really needed. The tapered core diameter of the old screws would force the plug open and increase the effectiveness of the plug.

Reply to
DerbyBorn

On Monday 30 September 2013 09:07 DerbyBorn wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Well, you can still buy old screws - now in stainless and with pozi heads as options - so it's just a matter of choosing the right one for the job.

I used pozi SS "regular" woodscrews with countersunk heads for fixing a load of oak skirting where I needed an excellent retention against pull :)

Reply to
Tim Watts

Not had this happen with Turbogold, but I had it happen quite a few times with their Turbo Ultra Stainless Screws screwing into timber not wallplugs, often on encountering a knot and trying to back out.

If I want better screws than Screwfix's own brand then it's either Spax or Reisser

Reply to
The Other Mike

Spax very robust, but a bit expensive.

Reisser Cutter (from ToolStation), slightly cheaper than TurboGold (IIRC), and slightly more robust.

Reply to
dom

Thanks for the positive testimonial and the warning, I was about to buy some to fix some floor boards at a house I look after as they were a couple of quid less than 'Tites' but I absolutely knew that when I went back to lift them again I would forget my torx drivers :-/

I need to modify my tool kit to have more torx bits (beside my box of DeWalt Pz2s in my drill/driver case).

Reply to
fred

You won't want to use pozi once you have used torx screws.

Reply to
dennis

I have a box of De Walt PZ2s and they are s**te!

I keep tearing the end off then having to get needle nosed pliers to fish the broken bit out of the screw head so I can finish the job with the next bit.

Cheers

LGC

Reply to
David.WE.Roberts

You need better plugs - they should be tapered on the inside for exactly the effect you're after.

Mathew

Reply to
Mathew Newton

But then you are Dave (no luck with DIY - or computers) Roberts

Using an impact driver to screw into a wallplug may imply a somewhat heavy handed approach ;-)

Reply to
fred

:-)

I've taken to using the impact driver for nearly all screws because it is so much lighter and more compact than the non-impact driver.

It only goes into 'impact' mode for the final tightening with wall plugs.

I think I caught the habit from our builders who use impact drivers for almost everything. In fact I bought a driver after watching them get so much use out of one.

I blame the screws - I had much the same issues with frame fixings before the time of the impact driver. Putting them in with the Site drill/driver, when they tightened up when nearly fully home the head tore off. I ended up greasing the screws to stop them binding.

On the subject of De Walt PZ2s, I have a venerable B&D PZ2 bit which seems indestructible so far, but the De Walt bulk box ones just seem to shatter.

However they were cheap and made in China so perhaps the De Walt badge doesn't mean that much in this case.

Cheers

Dave R

Reply to
David.WE.Roberts

In article , David.WE.Roberts writes

That makes good sense.

For expanding plugs in plasterboard (eg the very good Rawlpug Uno) I have been doing them up by hand as I don't want too much rotational force applied in case it weakens the grip. Probably over cautious but I only do a few every now and again so it doesn't matter much.

I can second TMHs recommendation for Quicksilver screws in wallplugs, despite being twin threaded they have more of a traditional profile and spread the plug rather than just cut into it. That of course makes them less suitable for plain wood use without pre-drilling as the profile has to push more out of the way.

I think that happens more often when using cheap fixings, it's not something I'd expect from Fischer for example or it may be a sign of a slightly undersize hole in masonry.

I believe the quite expensive Screw-Tite range I pointed to up-thread come pre-lubed.

I think impact drivers are a beast apart in this respect and need careful choice in bits. I don't have one myself so can't recommend but I'm sure John Rumm or TMH have shared their experience on this in the recent past, maybe a GG search for impact +driver +bits with them as author might find an old recommendation.

Reply to
fred

Guess you'll need to use their stainless range then ;-)

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Actually decking screws but the profile doesn't look that different. Square drive though which may be a turn off.

If you're able to relax your requirement a little, these claim excellent outdoor corrosion resistance at half the price:

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Perhaps too late by now but there you go.

Reply to
fred

I don't have a problem with bits & impact drivers at all. I just buy whatever box of bits is on offer at the time, DeWalt, Silverline, Wickes OL.

I often get through a bucket of 1,000 deck screws without any bit changes.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Ouch! that's expensive, now. I don't see a reason for A4 for decking; it's weaker than A2 and the corrosion resistance doen't need to marine (unless de-iced). I've had A2 for most fasteners on my bikes and trikes for 30+ years and they've never corroded in spite of all the salt.

Nice-looking screw, to coin a phrase.

Yes, by about 4 years! Why I built a shed to last 50 years when I was 63 I still don't understand, but too late now.

Reply to
PeterC

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